Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Frank Minunni, Karl Swisher 2002
Page Views: 1,596 total · 20/month
Shared By: Cameron Coppock on May 10, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route

2 Opinions

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Extremely continuous and demanding climbing up an orange, overhanging corner. The first completely trad 5.13 in the Adirondacks. A classic if you can climb at this grade. Though I have neither the skills nor the cojones to climb this route, it appears nearly featureless above the small ledge 15' from the start. It is one of those routes that gains its high grade not from steepness, but from the fact that it is climbed almost entirely by slapping and smearing on an overhanging corner. A real test.


Start from the ledge below Bon Chance.


RPs, small TCUs.
"The most important piece of equipment leading to success was a soccer shin pad to protect the right shin when the critical foot came off the crux."-Adirondack Rock


Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
The FIRST completely trad line in the Park; not the only. May 10, 2012
Jim Lawyer    
Actually, I think this is the only trad .13 in the park (on public land). The route on the Tsunami Wall is all-trad 5.14.

...or am I missing something? May 18, 2012
M LaViolette Jr.
The Past
M LaViolette Jr.   The Past
Chris Duca
Downingtown, PA
Chris Duca   Downingtown, PA
Couldn't you also consider "Zabba" au naturale, as well, considering no one clips the bolt at 2/3 height? McCormick's route at The Web is on Public Land, no? May 19, 2012
Jim Lawyer    
Zabba -- good point, but it does have a bolt, and I've seen people clip it. But yeah, some people don't, so this counts.

Wheelin' and Dealin' -- forgot about that. It's new.

There are also .13s on private land...could be some pure trad ones in there somewhere. May 20, 2012
frank minunni
Las Vegas, NV
frank minunni   Las Vegas, NV
Hey Jim, How are you? (Frank Minunni here)
In ref to the first trad 13 in the Daks. Primal Scream at Mosher Rd. is 13a, all trad. Was done around 95 I would say. Took a bunch of 40 footers onto a number 5 stopper before unlocking it. Predates HOC by at least 7 years. Not sure if Mosher is considered Daks but we figured anything north of Albany. May 18, 2013
Jim Lawyer    
Hi Frank...how's Red Rocks???

I knew about that one (and, yes, it's in the park). It's private land, unfortunately. We'll have to make the corrections in the 2nd edition. May 21, 2013
frank minunni
Las Vegas, NV
frank minunni   Las Vegas, NV
Red Rocks is awesome. Miss the East sometimes, although I hear the weather hasn't been too good there. No big deal about Primal Scream. Just thought I'd mention for informational purposes.

Hoping to get back east in the early fall in decent shape and try a couple of lines we had eyeballed at Silver Lake.

Let me know when the 2nd edition comes out so I can get a copy.

Say hi to Jeremy for me. May 22, 2013