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Diagonal Dyslexia
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 8
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | James Garrett, Jared Nielsen, Jared Stevens, Dec 2000 |
| Page Views: | 2,377 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | jakobi on May 9, 2012 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
P1-Climb a bolt protected slab and follow the rightward trending dike past a flake. Belay at the top of the ramp from a two bolt anchor. 5.10-
P2-Climb the dike, clipping 4 bolts and moving back left into the chimney. Follow the easy chimney to a good stance where the weakness starts arcing diagonally right. Build a belay at the stance. 5.10
p3-Follow the weakness which is essentially a huge dike up and right finding good gear placements along the way. At about 35m the dike stops at a big ear-shaped flake. From here, tension traverse out right to a bolt and climb up a few easier moves to a stance and a natural belay or do tenuous moves on the underside of the big ear. The rock is somewhat gritty here.
5.7 AO or 5.11
p4-From the belay climb past two bolts into the right-facing hand crack, climb through gritty yet easy terrain from here and scramble to the summit. There's no bolted anchor on the summit other than the rappel anchors which are on the top of a big perched boulder. There's good gear below the boulder however.
P2-Climb the dike, clipping 4 bolts and moving back left into the chimney. Follow the easy chimney to a good stance where the weakness starts arcing diagonally right. Build a belay at the stance. 5.10
p3-Follow the weakness which is essentially a huge dike up and right finding good gear placements along the way. At about 35m the dike stops at a big ear-shaped flake. From here, tension traverse out right to a bolt and climb up a few easier moves to a stance and a natural belay or do tenuous moves on the underside of the big ear. The rock is somewhat gritty here.
5.7 AO or 5.11
p4-From the belay climb past two bolts into the right-facing hand crack, climb through gritty yet easy terrain from here and scramble to the summit. There's no bolted anchor on the summit other than the rappel anchors which are on the top of a big perched boulder. There's good gear below the boulder however.
Location
Locate the arcing weakness and look for the ramp, either scramble up the ramp and belay at the two bolt anchor at the top of pitch one or skirt the base of the ramp and look for the bolted slab.
Descend from rappel anchors on the summit boulder doing three double rope rappels to the ground.
Descend from rappel anchors on the summit boulder doing three double rope rappels to the ground.
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