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Routes in Sugar Crack Buttress

Rubberneck Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sugar Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Sugaree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: L. Dalke, 1965
Page Views: 428 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 9, 2012
Admins: Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Leo Paik, John McNamee

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description [Edit]

It looks unstable, scary, and run out, but it isn't any of those. While it is not a route to push your limits on, good protection can be had the whole way and the flake is actually pretty well-attached.

Scramble up some slabby junk out of the ditch along the road and to a ledge below the obvious flake. Place gear under and in the flake and pull up and into it. Continue past good stances and rests, placing sometimes hard-to-see gear in the flakes every 4-5 feet (double set of Aliens if you want to sew it up), and top out of the flake on face holds. A horizontal with a thin-hands placement comes just as you run out of flake to protect. Make a few moves left and pull over a slight bulge onto a slab and continue up and left to the summit of the rock, protecting in good horizontals most of the time.

Location [Edit]

This climb is on the SW buttress of the Sugar Crack Wall. It climbs the obvious, right-facing flake system that starts 4 meters up and then goes slightly left to a horizontal and slab and then onto the summit.

Protection [Edit]

Mostly finger-sized TCUs or Aliens, so consider a double set of narrow-profile cams if you want to stitch it up - perhaps a good idea since the flake is thin and some gear might not hold a whipper. Larger cam opportunities exist too, so take a full set of cams to 3" and a few long slings.

A gear anchor up top can be had prior to walking off to the West.

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