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Routes in (2) Hanging Gardens

B.F.D. T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chockstone Chimney T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Circus Act to Black Prow T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Edges and Ledges T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
From Something to Nothing S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun in the Mud T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Giant's Staircase T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grace and Danger T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Hammer, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hanging Gardens Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hobbit Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoe, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loose Block Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sandy's Direct T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scorpion Seam S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Sesame Street T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Shining Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sickle, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slapfest S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Slow Drag (LBO variation) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
So Embarrassing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tips City T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: FA 1965 Bob Waring, John Wells, Bruce Holcomb. FRFA: 1974 Rich Borich
Page Views: 1,429 total · 19/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on May 8, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description [Edit]

This line was one of the first routes at Broughton bluff and it's age is fairly obvious the farther along you go. Despite the questionable bolts and anchors and a short section of fragmented rock, This route deserves to be on your tick list if you enjoy adding a little adventure to your climbs.
Pitch 1 - There are four variations for this first pitch. Two go at 5.8 and two at 5.6 leading to bolted anchors just left of a small tree.
Pitch 2 - From here, route finding can be tricky. Move up above the tree onto a slab under a small roof and traverse across the slab. Climb up a short bulge directly after the slab and continue moving right. look for two pitons right above you as there are no good placement options here. After clipping the piton, look right and slightly down for anchors about fifteen feet right. there isn't really any pro across this section but the climbing isn't to bad either.
Pitch 3 - Follow the path of least resistance up and right about 20 feet past a small tree and onto an arete with bolts looming above on an overhang. look around the corner and you will see a line of bolts and pitons traversing a slightly overhung wall. This section is the crux of the climb and is stiff for the 10a grade. continue traversing right to a bunch of shrubs and a medium sized tree where you will find an anchor badly in need of some love. The anchor is pretty rusted but does have one saving grace three quarter inch bolt from the nineties.
Plan on bringing webbing if you want to rap to the ground via a single eighty foot rap. Otherwise, you can climb up the poison oak infested hillside via thirty feet of fourth class terrain to a large tree(recommended belay for this section). Walk off.
The Portland Rock climbs guidebook states that you can aid the 10a section. One of the bolts on the traverse is missing a hanger, making it at most partially free.

Location [Edit]

In the middle of Hanging Gardens right half about 20 feet right of Loose Block Overhangs obvious off width crack.

Protection [Edit]

Gear to 1.5 inches. Depending on the first pitch variation you choose, this could be up to 4 inches.

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I'd just like to emphasize the poison oak danger on this route. I did it a couple of years ago and while my partner and I though we had successfully avoided the poison oak, we both came down with the worst cases of PO rash that either of us had ever had. Jun 12, 2012
Mr. Holmes
Cascade West
Mr. Holmes   Cascade West
I second the poison oak concern! In fact, it was on this route I learned I was immune. My partner was not so fortunate... Jul 10, 2012
Richard Denker
Portland OR
Richard Denker   Portland OR
I attempted it about 30-years ago and fell on the third pitch, tore a gash in my left shin; 18 stitches.

On 9-Feb-2016 finally made it back to finish the route. Being 60 I am not quite the lead climber I was then, so I did not attempt to lead the third pitch. But my partner Andee, who is a 5.10+/.11- lead climber and I both though the 5.10a was more like 5.10b or 5.10c.

One reason I have not gone back to Broughton Bluff is that my partners have alway come down with poison oak (I am immune), so for their sake I avoid the place. Feb 11, 2016
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
Poison Oak is certainly an issue on this route. However, it is only of only a couple routes that have PO on the route, so as long as you stick to the trails, and stay away from this route, and a couple on North Wall, you should be fine. Feb 11, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
The direct start that involves stemming up between two wide cracks is 1-star at most. It gets a little more fun as you step right around the tree and cross the ledge. From here, I linked into Sesame Street, which can be done with only moderate rope drag if you're very conscious of extending placements. May 20, 2017

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