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Routes in The Captain

38 Special T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Acapulco Gold T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Captain Jameson T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Cheap Thrills T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grandview T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hazed and Confused S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Kids with Guns T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Lunar Illusions T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Outside Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X
Puttin' In Time T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Warning, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Washed Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Jonathan Garlough & Lincoln Tetherly
Page Views: 59 total, 1/month
Shared By: chinos on May 7, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The Warning climbs on the "Elephants Head Buttress" located at the left end of the big wall sections. The rock is mostly good, but sections of brief choss are encountered on moderate terrain.

ALL BOLTS WERE PLACED FREE ON LEAD BY HAND.

P1: Start under the Elephants Head Buttress. Scramble up a series of ledges for 40' to a bolt. (the slab to the right will be the start when it's dry). Climb up the face placing gear in cracks and pull a bulge to a bolt. Move right into the crack system and follow it to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 120' 5.8+ PG-13.

P2: Climb up the slab off the anchor to a ledge (bolt). Continue up the slab and past a choss ban on easy terrain and move up past the tree ledge to a gear belay in the corner. 55' 5.9 R

P3: Follow the awesome corner up and right placing gear to a bolt. Run it out up the rest of the corner to a ledge. Move up and right on some chossy ledges to a layback crack/flake. Finish up to the tree ledge with a tree anchor. 115' 5.10 R

Location

The Elephants Head Buttress

Protection

Standard Rack and Bolts

Photos

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nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
Great job guys. On lead, ground up. Get'r done.
-Jon Howard May 8, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
COOL... so much to do. May 8, 2012