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Routes in The Rubicon

Burning Bridges S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hard Cranking Dude S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Stink Therefore I Am S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Manifest Destiny S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Monkey Business S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Narcolepsy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Return of the Jedi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Somnambulance S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sparkle and Fade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Victim of Circumstance S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
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Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: M. Nad, J. Nad
Page Views: 696 total · 9/month
Shared By: jeffozozo on May 7, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Crawdad Canyon is private property. Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Cool climb in a wide crack and over a bulge. Lots of good holds and some cool stemming moves.

Location [Suggest Change]

labeled at the bottom. Follows the obvious wide crack.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts to rap anchor

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jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
 
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
 
This climb is labeled at the bottom as 5.11 b/c. In the Goss guidebook, there is a note that says "if climbed as a crack climb it is 5.9 or so."

I'd call it 5.10a. I can't figure out how/why you'd want to try to climb this without using the holds in the crack.

The anchors are quite a ways to the right of the bottom of the climb and are not visible from the bottom, making it difficult to top rope. But I found that you can leave the last draw clipped or use it as a 'tram' and it works ok. It is such a cool climb that we wanted to rig it so those in our party who couldn't lead, would be able to climb it as well. May 7, 2012
Gordon Larsen
St. George, UT
 
Gordon Larsen   St. George, UT
 
One of my favorite lines in the canyon. It can share the same anchor with Monkey Business. Stays in the shade essentially all year long. Rap hangers at the top are still solid but do spin a little. I consider it 10+ in difficulty. Mar 2, 2013

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