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Routes in Quarry Wall

Bat Hooks Gone Wild C2+
Bolt Ladder C0
Mantle by Mantle T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Aid, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bolted on Lead By: Nate Skains & Dave Alden
Page Views: 3,190 total · 43/month
Shared By: Dave Alden on May 6, 2012 with updates from Alex Barlow
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description [Suggest Change]

P1: Straight up until right before the anchor where the bolt line traverses left.
P2: Straight up until you reach a series of horizontal seams where the bolt line trends slightly right.

Option: Lead in one push to the second belay with a 60m rope.

Location [Suggest Change]

Left side of the Quarry wall.

Protection [Suggest Change]

P1: 12 bolts leading to a 2-bolt anchor/rapp station.
P2: 19 bolts leading to a 2-bolt anchor/rapp station.

Rapp to the ground from the second belay with a 60m rope.
If you rapp in from above the rim, a 70m is likely needed to reach the ground.
Jeff Kent
Sedona, Az
Jeff Kent   Sedona, Az
Your bolt ladder is still a project? Apr 30, 2013
Dave Alden
Sacramento, CA
 
Dave Alden   Sacramento, CA
 
The rating system for clean aid routes does in fact range from C0-C5, just as the original scale ranges from A0-A5.

Having said that, a clean aid climb (denoting the C rating) can be defined as a route that can be completed without a hammer and associated pins even if the route uses previously installed expansion bolts.

FYI there is no use for a hammer or pins on this route. All expansion bolts and associated hangers have been fixed and, unless removed by a third party, remain in place for everyone's use.

Bolt ladders are never given the A rating and are typically the only type of aid climb given a C0 rating, aside from the occasional pendulum or tension traverse on otherwise free climbs. Anything above C0 (ie C1-C5) require the placement of traditional gear.

The A0 rating is reserved for routes that are climbed mostly free with an occasional aid move that does not require specialized aid gear. An example would be pulling on gear from time to time during a free ascent, also known as french free climbing.

Also, both anchor/rappel stations have quick links fixed to assist in rappelling without having to leave gear behind. This route is indeed a good safe way to introduce yourself to aid climbing. You can leave your hammer at home and only pack in around 15 draws instead. Jan 9, 2014
Chase Leoncini
San Diego, California
Chase Leoncini   San Diego, California
Went out to complete this today and the entire face of the quarry is surrounded by honey bees. We found honeycomb on the ground nearby and it seems they have taken up shelter beneath the cracks of the wall where water often flows downward. There is no way to climb here safely until either the bees have been dealt with or your mother is named Daenerys and you have have the skin of a dragon. Dec 16, 2017
Went up and slept in a portaledge at the P2 anchors on March 27, 2018. No bees around. 60m rope is fine for rapping. Mar 28, 2018

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