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Routes in Narrows Proper
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Art of Breaking, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cantaloupe S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Cement Garden, The T,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Chiroptophobia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Choss Ninja S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Deep Eddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Fudge Judge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Jenga Buttress Crack aka 10a Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Other People's Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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People's Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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People's Rebolt T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Red Faction S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Screwheads S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sloppy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Snap, Crackle, Pop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Village Idiot, The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 55 ft (17 m) |
| FA: | Jeff Jackson, 2011 |
| Page Views: | 995 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Taylor Roy on May 6, 2012 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
If you don't mind a dyno crux and a little loose rock, you might like Cantaloupe.
Cool granite pockets and edges set you up on a fragile left hand edge and a soapy right hand undercling. Hike you feet absurdly high, and dyno up and right to a generous incut bucket. Follow decent holds right towards a small corner, and use some slick slopers and strangely non-ergonomic holds to mantle over the roof. Once you are above the roof, move right again using more frustratingly awkward holds, until you reach some generous sidepulls. Good but well spaced holds lead to the chains.
This route has great movement and really interesting holds. However, the rock is still cleaning up - especially up high. After a bunch of ascents and some cleaning, this route will probably end up being a bit harder and deserve at least an extra quality star.
Cool granite pockets and edges set you up on a fragile left hand edge and a soapy right hand undercling. Hike you feet absurdly high, and dyno up and right to a generous incut bucket. Follow decent holds right towards a small corner, and use some slick slopers and strangely non-ergonomic holds to mantle over the roof. Once you are above the roof, move right again using more frustratingly awkward holds, until you reach some generous sidepulls. Good but well spaced holds lead to the chains.
This route has great movement and really interesting holds. However, the rock is still cleaning up - especially up high. After a bunch of ascents and some cleaning, this route will probably end up being a bit harder and deserve at least an extra quality star.
Protection
Bolts and a bolted anchor with fixed carabiners for lowering.
Per Francis Sanzaro: one of the anchor bolts was smashed off by falling rock.
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