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California
> Sierra Eastside
> Lone Pine Area
> Alabama Hills
> Western Wall Area
> Hoodgie Wall
Original Route [Suggest Change]
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
Avg: 2.6 from 8
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Routes in Hoodgie Wall
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Ankles Away S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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East Face Block TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face Hueco TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Escuche Vaca Heard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X |
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Holy Shiite, Muslim! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hoodgie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Leonosphere S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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NorthEast Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 645 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Justin Tomlinson on May 6, 2012 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description [Suggest Change]
The opening few moves are thin. A little higher was a strech move to gain the only bolt at about 20 feet up. Climb easy ledges to the crack another 20 feet up and sink some gear. Bring a sling and you can equalize several cams. Climb easy knobs and ledges above, merging with "Ankles Away", sharing the same anchor. (Note: This is how I climbed the route. I didn't see anchors for this route specifically, though the Croft/Lewis book shows anchors.)
A good spicy challenge in the otherwise heavily bolted hills. Take great care not to break holds to avoid long falls.
A good spicy challenge in the otherwise heavily bolted hills. Take great care not to break holds to avoid long falls.
Protection [Suggest Change]
1 bolt + cam(s) at the high horizontal crack. I brought a .75, 1 and 2 C4 and they all fit in the crack.
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