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Routes in Hoodgie Wall

Ankles Away S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Face Block TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
East Face Hueco TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Escuche Vaca Heard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Holy Shiite, Muslim! T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoodgie T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leonosphere S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
NorthEast Arete TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Original Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 558 total, 8/month
Shared By: Justin Tomlinson on May 6, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The opening few moves are thin. A little higher was a strech move to gain the only bolt at about 20 feet up. Climb easy ledges to the crack another 20 feet up and sink some gear. Bring a sling and you can equalize several cams. Climb easy knobs and ledges above, merging with "Ankles Away", sharing the same anchor. (Note: This is how I climbed the route. I didn't see anchors for this route specifically, though the Croft/Lewis book shows anchors.)

A good spicy challenge in the otherwise heavily bolted hills. Take great care not to break holds to avoid long falls.

Protection

1 bolt + cam(s) at the high horizontal crack. I brought a .75, 1 and 2 C4 and they all fit in the crack.

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