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Routes in Savage Arena

Choss-A-Go-Go T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Savage Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Goddard 92
Page Views: 64 total · 1/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on May 6, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Not the best climb I've ever done, but as its right next to Savage Dance I did it as a warm up of sorts. The overall quality of the route is quite fun. Climb up through the bottom loose section to reach the first bolt, then enjoy more face climbing to the top. Book doesn't give a letter to the 5.11. Felt b'ish.

Location

Obvious blocky/chossy looking rock up through a hole thing to a 3 bolt face climbing endeavor.

Protection

3 bolts+2 bolt anchor plus some gear required. The bottom of the route looks a bit chossy and loose, which it is, which is probably why the Ruckmans gave this one an R. I didn't give it an R because I got two decent pieces in that I felt OK about prior to clipping the first bolt, and its not really hard climbing. I used a #3 camalot and a small blue tcu. Bring a few cams with you in case you like one placement better then the others.

Photos

John Steiger
  5.11c
John Steiger  
  5.11c
Concur, not an R. I'’d even say the route is almost safe -- it'’s just that several handholds are dubious, and if the wrong one blows, you'll take somewhat of a ride. I suspect that, due to the development of East Hellgate and crags like Aguaworld, our community’'s perception of choss, or at least dangerous choss, has changed a bit since Dale lived here. I could go with the b, but I tied a good pump on trying to figure out which holds to use, and blew, so my ego dictates the grade. Speaking of ego, nice photo Ten. Aug 16, 2012

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