Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Merrill Bitner '86
Page Views: 531 total · 6/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on May 6, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

To say this climb is anything less than sheer ecstasy would be utter blasphemy, so I will not. The Ruckmans give this one 3 stars, who are generally right on, and this one is no exception. I'm not a big fan of writing word for word what the book says about a climb, but look this one up as it is a classic one liner.
Enjoy a few jugs, but mostly solid incut edges with a few crimps and cracks up a slightly overhanging face. The crux wasn't super tricky, but its a pumpy climb for sure.

Location

This classic starts just left of a big triangular section of lower angle rock and right of a chossy crack section that is, adequately named, "Choss-a-go-go".

Protection

5 bolts+ 2 bolt anchor protect this one, and if you see the Ruckmans topo, the bolting is not excessive. AKA, fairly spaced out. I like my bolts a bit closer together than this one offers. Bolts 1 and 2 are no problem, but getting to bolt 3 is quite the mental crux. I felt like it was 12 feet or so, and your only 20+ feet up at that point. I would highly suggest not falling here. The crux comes at bolt 4, then bolt 5 is again spaced, and oddly 5 feet below the anchors. If it were me, I'd add one more bolt but I'm a heretic, and maybe that's why the Ruckmans like this one, because it does require some mental tenacity. I have none.

Photos