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Routes in Savage Arena

Choss-A-Go-Go T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Savage Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Merrill Bitner '86
Page Views: 273 total, 4/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on May 6, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

3 Opinions

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To say this climb is anything less than sheer ecstasy would be utter blasphemy, so I will not. The Ruckmans give this one 3 stars, who are generally right on, and this one is no exception. I'm not a big fan of writing word for word what the book says about a climb, but look this one up as it is a classic one liner.
Enjoy a few jugs, but mostly solid incut edges with a few crimps and cracks up a slightly overhanging face. The crux wasn't super tricky, but its a pumpy climb for sure.


This classic starts just left of a big triangular section of lower angle rock and right of a chossy crack section that is, adequately named, "Choss-a-go-go".


5 bolts+ 2 bolt anchor protect this one, and if you see the Ruckmans topo, the bolting is not excessive. AKA, fairly spaced out. I like my bolts a bit closer together than this one offers. Bolts 1 and 2 are no problem, but getting to bolt 3 is quite the mental crux. I felt like it was 12 feet or so, and your only 20+ feet up at that point. I would highly suggest not falling here. The crux comes at bolt 4, then bolt 5 is again spaced, and oddly 5 feet below the anchors. If it were me, I'd add one more bolt but I'm a heretic, and maybe that's why the Ruckmans like this one, because it does require some mental tenacity. I have none.
Paul Lanz  
Tenesmus, I think that your pretty close with your history, my recollection is that it was the hardest BC route at the time. I'm sure Merril or some of the old guard still in the area could elaborate. I actually hiked up to this wall and did the initial inspection of the Savage Dance line, Merrill Bitter and I then added bolts between gear placements, he lead it but I never could pull it. We added some other minor things there, Long for Midgets was one that I recall. As a side note The Bosch hammer drill was a rare coveted item in those days, the bolts on Savage Dance and many others that most of us drilled were all done by hand, not much fun in that hard quartzite... Dec 13, 2016
There is an excellet finger-sized cam placement between the second and third bolts that takes the sting away. Like most of the routes established in this era, they put it up with minimal impact in mind. Hence the room for pro.

I'm not sure on all the details but I heard a great story that when the world cup came the first year this was the one of the hardest routes in the Wasatch. Sport climbing just hadn't fully taken off in AF or other places around here. When all the Euros came in and hiked this it opened some eyes. By the time the World Cup came back the next summer AF was opening up and this area kind of fell out of favor.

It'd be cool to hear more details from those who were around at the time - or to simply set the record straight. Aug 18, 2012