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Routes in The Loft

Orange You Lichen It? T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Cory Fleagle (Sept. 2011)
Page Views: 702 total, 10/month
Shared By: Cor on May 4, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a nice little route uphill from areas. It has fun but hard to read climbing. An onsight would be proud! Start in small crack (between orange lichen streaks - crux) and continue up the wall. Pull over a small bulge/overhang and angle up face near right hand arete.

The crux crack feels a bit committing because of the ground being close and a lack of gear. There is a really good stopper placement (long reach) that does protect the crux, although it is hard to reach up and clip it in.... The stopper is fixed. A stick might be nice to clip it? All in all, it is not too bad though.

There is a bolted anchor on a ledge most of the way up the wall.

Location

Ascend gully between Vampire / Black Widow, continue up faint trail to a small wall. This wall can be seen from the road (look for bright orange lichen).

Protection

Standard rack to a #2 Camalot max. Two #0.75s are good. Offset cams work well also. A gray/purple Metolius cam works well in a horzontal near the top.

Photos

Liz Donley
Boulder, CO
  5.11+ PG13
Liz Donley   Boulder, CO
  5.11+ PG13
The route is very fun. The core muscles inside of my rib cage were sore for days after I TR'd it; however, I actually don't think that Cor and Wayne can tell the difference between 11- and 11+ sometimes.... I think it's harder! May 9, 2012
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Cor, The other 3 bolt route was put up by Bob Horan. 5.10 sounds about right. Not sure who he did this with. Steve S. May 7, 2012
Wayne Crill
an Altered State
  5.11-
Wayne Crill   an Altered State
  5.11-
I Lichened it! Another great find HC. Worthwhile to tromp up the gully for these two fun lines. May 7, 2012
Cor
 
Cor  
 
There is another route on this wall to the left of orange you lichen it.

The other climb (not sure who did it) goes up face with three bolts,
then goes to trad out some small overhangs. At the top, there is a one bolt anchor. You can back it up with a cam, then scramble right to my anchors to descend, or walk off top.

This climb is 5.10ish. May 4, 2012