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Routes in Orange Sunshine area

Cactus Love T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Columns Holiday T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cross-eyed and Painless T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cutting Edge, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dancing Madly Backwards S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Developing Arms T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Entrance Exam T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jam Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Morning After S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orange Sunshine T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Overlord, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Paul Maul T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Price of Complacency, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rap Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rough Boys T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Serpent T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Solar King T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stress Management S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Thriller Pillar S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Thriller Pillar, Left Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Western Front T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
X-Factor T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Andy Fitz, Ed Mosshart. Jan 1989
Page Views: 296 total, 4/month
Shared By: Andy Laakmann on May 1, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Temporary Closure (From April 28, 2017) Details
Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Fun, safe climbing on great stone. Crux seems to be getting to the first bolt, though there are plenty of thoughtful moves above.

Location

The bolted line on the pillar to the left of Orange Sunshine. A finger crack up a smooth face leads to the first bolt.

Protection

Bolted, but you'll want small gear getting to the first bolt and perhaps between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Anchor on top.

Photos

Joe Petroske
North Bend, WA
 
Joe Petroske   North Bend, WA
 
Before the first bolt is sketchy but fun. Crux is at the top, tempting to cheat it and use the corner, but with a couple high crimps you'll be at the top. The anchor is over the edge at the top; if you're setting up a top rope bring up long slings to prevent the rope from running over the edge. Nov 15, 2016
A.wilk Wilk
Olympia, WA
  5.10c
A.wilk Wilk   Olympia, WA
  5.10c
The start is a bit tricky before you reach the first bolt but it protects well with small cams. No need for gear anywhere else on the route.

The top is definitely the crux with two small crimps and a ton of feet to work with. I avoided the corner and I don't think you would need it to work through this bit. Sep 26, 2016
andyf
Tacoma, WA
andyf   Tacoma, WA
Yeah, several years ago. Apr 20, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
Andyf- did you rebolt this with nice big SS bolts? Apr 20, 2015
andyf
Tacoma, WA
andyf   Tacoma, WA
I (as the first ascentionist) have always climbed straight up at the finish, using two small high crimps and high-stepping onto the good edge you clip the last bolt from. I've always considered this the crux of the route. Oct 4, 2013
SHOPE Christian
Corvallis, OR
 
SHOPE Christian   Corvallis, OR
 
challenging balancy climbing on the edge of a pillar face. I stem/flagged off to the left for the finish but was unsure of the neighboring but distant pillar being 'in'. Oct 3, 2013