Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Chris Besnia, Hayden Price, Greg Gavin
Page Views: 105 total · 1/month
Shared By: Donovan Allen on May 1, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Look for the obvious gorgeous thin hands to finger crack, send it. FUN!


located on Space Station


small rack, metolius 0 was useful for the crux. Bolted anchors up top.


Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
Nice Work on this one guys. Can't wait to get on it May 15, 2012
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Mr. Bez scored on this one! Splitter! May 22, 2012
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
I remember hiking up there three or so years ago to check out the gorgeous looking 60' splitter... which turned out to be 15' long at best. Those 15' are fun and atypical for Ferguson, the crack being laser-cut as opposed to flaring and wavy. Regardless, 3 stars for 2 body lengths guarded by the worse section of talus in the Wasatch followed by the thickest brush? I'd say it's a bit generous. Maybe if it were right by Unction?

Bring a whippet for the talus and a can of gasoline + lighter for the bushwack. Also, limit the gear to BD .3 to #1 and no nuts in the name of saving weight (you'll understand on the approach).

The anchor placement makes absolutely no sense. Why you would bother putting bolts 4' back and 6' left from the top of the crack when you have perfectly good rock 6" to the side of said crack puzzles me. The dirt mantel was a treat, the bolts are now buried in gravel and the chains don't make it past the lip, making your rope run over fergy cheese grader rock and your last piece walk like a bitch.

Anyway, go up there if you've done everything else in Fergy. The view is cool and there's tons of disappointing choss to gape at. The route is fun too. Jul 16, 2012
Greg Gavin
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
Boissal, you've truly captured the essence of the space station experience! I haven't been up there since Chris installed the anchors perhaps some quicklinks would remedy the rope drag? Jul 29, 2012