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Chongo Arete

5.11b, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 11 votes
FA: Chongo Brothers, c1993
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Tahquitz Rock > (g) W Face > Lunch Rock

Description

Start up the sloping rock to the arete.

Pass two breaks, where you can get small cams in the horizontals. Passing the second horizontal to gain the arete and the 1st bolt is the technical crux.

With the 1st bolt clipped move up and find some holds on the left side of the arete which allow the 2nd bolt and easier climbing to be reached.

With little trouble move on up to the anchors.

Location

Left arete of the west face

Protection

Gear to 1.5 inches, 3 bolts and 2 bolt anchor (all 3/8")

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lori Williams following Chongo's Arete.
[Hide Photo] Lori Williams following Chongo's Arete.
Chongo Arete, 5.11b Topo
[Hide Photo] Chongo Arete, 5.11b Topo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Rebolted a few years ago the new bolts are located on the right side of the arete, unlike the old bolts which were on the left. Apr 30, 2012
Bob Gaines
Joshua Tree, CA
 
[Hide Comment] At the first bolt, if you move to the left side of the arete, the route is 10d. Straight up from the first bolt is 5.11+. Jul 24, 2019
Matt Beebe
 
[Hide Comment] I climbed this two different ways after gaining the first bolt. I went up the right side of the Arete which felt about 11b and I went up the face just slightly to the right of the bolt which felt about 11c. Both ways converge at the second bolt and both ways are really fun climbing. FYI the anchor bolts are missing, but if you bring a long cordelette you can utilize some cam placements far back and sling the big tree branch too. Also there used to be a route that climbed the steep face just to the left of the Arete past two bolts. I did it in the early 90s and remember it feeling about 11d. The bolts are gone now, but the holes were never filled so you can see where it used to start. Anyway I think a key little handhold broke. It might still go for a really tall person. Oct 19, 2022