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Routes in Pinky Pillar (backside)

Escape From The Gumbies T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown (Escape Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown (Escape Right) T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Wade Parker, Brade Hoover
Page Views: 364 total, 5/month
Shared By: Wade Parker on Apr 29, 2012
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

Original route starts low, just below a 1.5 to 2" crack underneath a small roof. Put pro in here with a very short or no runner and move straight up to the fixed knifeblade. Stay low while clipping the knifeblade to help with groundfall potential. Move straight up into cruxy moves and then over left to the bolt. A few neat, juggy moves lead to a chain anchor from there. An easier variation follows the left arete.

Location

In the middle of the face on the backside of Pinky Pillar

Protection


Trad gear, one fixed pin, one bolt and a bolted anchor with chains.

Photos

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chris mcguigan
belmont, nc
  5.8+
chris mcguigan   belmont, nc
  5.8+
did it today for the first time, need to lead it. I thought it was a surprisingly good climb even though its short. Started middle part of the wall moved up and right then back left to fixed pin. Grab the jugs on the left arete. felt like 5.8
Good movement throughout. Aug 10, 2013
Wade Parker
Clover SC
 
Wade Parker   Clover SC
 
FA - Wade Parker and Brade Hoover. There are several variations to do the route so to avoid controversy we rated it 5.8 when we put it up. Aug 22, 2012