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Routes in Space Balls Wall

Beam You Down S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bleeps, Sweeps, and the Creeps, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Comb the Desert! T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dink Dink S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dot Matrix T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hail Screwed T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hyperactive Speed T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lonestar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ludicrous Speed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over My Helmet T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pizza the Hut T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Power Of the Schwartz T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Princess Vespa S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 115 ft
FA: Jesse Zacher
Page Views: 369 total, 5/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Apr 29, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a nice long pitch that packs a punch at the end. There is a little bit of everything on this one. Start off with a brief scramble to the dihedral. Sink some fingers in the corner until the dihedral ends. Walk up the ramp and clip a bolt in the broken overhang. Stem, and move past supplementing the bolt with a buried 0.5 Camalot in a slot. Move up some flared cracks towards the obvious two foot roof. Clip a bolt at the roof's lip and make some creative moves past the roof. Some fun face climbing follows till the base of a short, shallow dihedral. Clip bolts to the apex of the dihedral where things get difficult. Make some tenuous moves to gain the ledge and anchors.

Location

Go up the obvious face just right of Dink Dink and left of the inset dihedral which separates the route from Hyperactive Speed. The sharp, distinct corner at the beginning is easy to spot.

Protection

Small gear, nothing larger than a # 0.5, nuts, slings. I would sling everything until you pass the two foot roof. A 70m is recommended. Bailing off to the right on the ledge is doable with shorter ropes.

Photos

Nick Reecy    
Killing it, Jesse! Love the Space Balls theme! Apr 29, 2012