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Routes in Sleeping Princess Area (FTGU Centre)

Baby Steps S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kids and Old Guys S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Off The Grid T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
One Finger or Two S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pig Pen T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Puzzle, The T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sleeping Princess T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smart Grid S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: 10a (2 pts aid): D. Brayshaw 2012. FFA: B Herrington, M-A Leclerc 2014
Page Views: 500 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dru B. on Apr 29, 2012
Admins: Kate Lynn

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Description

Very thin diagonal seams off the ledge past two bolts (boulder problem, 12-, or two A0 moves) lead to a right-facing layback that widens into a finger and hand crack. Where the crack dies out, step left and climb a blunt arete up dishes and edges to the top. 10a except for the boulder problem start.

Location

Starts off the ledge atop Baby Steps and right of Sleeping Princess. Two bolt anchor on top. Can rap Sleeping princess or keep climbing up Tree Frog. Possible to link Baby Steps with this for one long 40m pitch.

Protection

4 bolts plus 2-3 pieces of finger sized gear for the crack

Photos

Dru B.
  5.12-
Dru B.  
  5.12-
The start off the ledge is thin and balancy, about 6 to 7 moves long. I'm nowhere near freeing it. Soloed the rest of the climb from the stance just past the second bolt. FFA is up for grabs, have at it. Apr 29, 2012
Marco  
I gave this route a try not too long ago on lead and I would suggest around .12+. I was able to work through all of the crux but could not stick the final big deadpoint. The crux section feels like V6 or 7 with some very thin and painful holds. The final move is a huge reach across to a very thin, flared seam, which I kept popping out of. Cool problem. Dec 30, 2012
Marc-Andre
Squamish, B.C
Marc-Andre   Squamish, B.C
FFA - Brette Harrington & M-A Leclerc

5.12- and quite sequential, good addition to the crag! Apr 8, 2014

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