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Routes in Main Face

Captain's Crack (Erotic Nut Selection, E.N.S.) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heavy Weather T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ladybug S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Peregrination T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Plea Deal AKA Sling The Horn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Kristian Barrowman E. Bourdeau 95' Bolts added by E. Worley in 2007
Page Views: 1,256 total, 19/month
Shared By: Seth Maciejowski on Apr 28, 2012
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

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Description

The best 5.8 at Double Upper and quite possibly the best 5.8 in Bolton. Follow many bolts on the left margin of the main face up low angle terrain to an overhang halfway up the cliff. Pull the overhang on jugs to a ledge with a two bolt belay. P2 : Climb up behind the massive horn of rock with occasional gear to the top of the cliff. Choose from any number of trees to rappel off.

Location

Look for a bolt about 20' up the left most side of the main face slab.

Protection

gear to hand sized. lots of draws for P1.

Photos

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Zak Munro
VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Zak Munro   VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME
 
Best to leave some more cord on the tree whoever climbs this next, the current cord was looking pretty ratty. Oct 6, 2017
doliver  
Ok two notes:

First of First off the 2nd pitch of the Lorax is really cool as long as you only climb the upper chimney having done the lower chimney again yesterday i found myself barely fitting through and only after a 45 minute grovel reaching the top, must have been super skinny 2 years ago! If you climb right of the first chimney then is makes for the "fun outing" mentioned in the guidebook

Second you dont need a big bro pretty sure 4 in cam would work in back of chimney though cant say ive actually place it.


Honestly i think 2 bolts on the "horn" that makes the chimney could be a pretty cool finish.. Aug 11, 2016
Speaking of which... I believe the guidebook recommends bringing a big bro along for this climb. Can anyone who's done the route speak to how necessary that is? I'd like to check this route out, but I don't climb wide cracks enough to justify buying a big bro right now. Aug 10, 2016
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
 
Don't listen to Dylan, that guy is a cook who likes big bros. Aug 5, 2016
doliver  
while I'll agree that the second pitch of this climb is a pretty neat feature but to say it is the coolest in Bolton is a bit of a stretch, that award I would reserve for just about anything at Bone mountain. Or if you want to stay more local the second pitch of the Lorax is soooooooo much cooler, and you can climb stone staircase to access it if you don't have wide gear. It is a fun route tho I just find it interesting what gets 3 stars and what get forgotten Aug 4, 2016
TSluiter
Holland, VT
 
TSluiter   Holland, VT
 
Well protected and fun climb, easy cruisin' with a little hint of spice near the end of the first pitch. 9 bolts lead to the P1 belay on a nice ledge. Nov 22, 2015
Kris Fiore
Burlington, Vermont
 
Kris Fiore   Burlington, Vermont  
 
Don't miss out on this wild second pitch of this route, it's the coolest rock formation in Bolton. Traverse right and up to reach a left facing corner before working up and under the enormous horn of rock. Some are deterred by looking directly up from the anchors thinking this is the route. Traverse right and you won't be sorry. Apr 15, 2015
Devin Krevetski
Northfield, VT
  5.8+
Devin Krevetski   Northfield, VT
  5.8+
climbed the first pitch, with the guidebook published I'm sure this route will see more traffic(cleaning it up). Second pitch looked like brushy/lichen steep-hike thicketeering.

Can't rap to the ground from the anchors, a 60 meter rope will get you below the first bolt and its an easy downclimb from there Aug 21, 2012