Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Marble Wall

Knuckles Down S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Madness T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Racist Haircut S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: B. Spannuth (equipped by W. Anglin)
Page Views: 58 total, 1/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Apr 25, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Good movement on great rock. There are a few different sequences from the first to second bolt: either move straight up with long pulls on awesome crimps, or scooch a bit right and make tension moves to a good hold and traverse left on the horizontal. Climb to a shake then up to the roof though an amazing sequence of edges. Pull left through the roof using the "black tongue" to a good sidepull (the tongue looks like it could rip off, but it is really solid. I tried to kick it off when I bolted it, but it is there to stay and makes for a very unique hold). Contunue up on slopers to a kneebar just under the anchor. A horizontal hand-jam out left makes clipping the anchor a breeze. It may be the best route of the grade within a 30 minute radius of Gunnison.

Protection

7 bolts to anchors.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments