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Routes in Brides of Mine

Yes Dear T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0
Type: Trad, Aid, 240 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: George Hurley?
Page Views: 126 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Apr 24, 2012
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Pitch 1:
Start next to a tree on the North East side of the tower. Climb route of least resistance to the notch and a one bolt one pin anchor.
We climbed up a loose wide corner to a ledge. Then up another corner, cut left to avoid a roof and mantel onto a ledge/ramp that leads to your choice of a chimney or a nice crack. We chose the crack. 120' 5.10

Pitch 2:
Climb the wide crack on the smaller feature to the climbers right of the notch. Pass two good bolts in route to the shoulder that has a drilled pin on it. Clip the pin then jump the gap to the main tower and start pulling on draws and standing on drilled pins. This pitch might go free and 5.12? The anchor on top consists of three pins in a crack. 120' 5.10, A0

Location

The route starts on the North East side.

Protection

Double set to #4 camalot, draws, etc.

Photos

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
Thought this one was rather heads-up for the grade. The first pitch was overall pretty loose/blocky, and it was a ways off the deck before any adequate pro was available. The crack in the final part was decent, albeit with an awkward lean. The second pitch wide crack start felt difficult for the grade I thought, and even clipping long slings on the first part, the leader will have heinous rope drag by the finish. There is a section in the middle of the pin ladder with about 15'-20' of mandatory free climbing that is not that hard, but slabby, sandy, and makes for a long runout. Also, these pins have been in situ for quite some time now; all are quite rusty, but it is the army ring angles that seemed most skeptical.

The pin anchor on top is ok, but not real inspiring. May want to bring a hammer to test and possible reset or replace any of the pins that might need it.

You can rap off in two raps with a single 70m rope, but both are rope stretchers, so watch the ends! Nov 30, 2017
Ben Kiessel  
 
James Garret thought that maybe George Hurley did the FA. Apr 25, 2012