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All That Glitters

5.10a, Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2 from 4 votes
FA: DASampson and Brian Burgess (2011)
Arizona > Central Arizona > Queen Creek Canyon > Lower Devil's C… > Glitter Box Area
Warning Access Issue: Must Register! Private Property-The Pond, Atlantis and Mine Area DetailsDrop down

Description

The crux is perhaps the first few moves off the ground or at the last bolt. Somewhat poor rock quality for the first 30 feet is protected by bolts. This climb was put in last fall.

Location

Two climbs to the right of World Vision (just right of what is called "The Project"); located on the SE corner of the glitter box facing the canyon. Just left of the climb "Gold." Shares the first four bolts.

Protection

Mixed; five bolts. Small to medium cams plus stoppers. Please LEAVE anchor carabiners in place.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Same start as the awesome and super fun bolted line, "Gold" that presumably David will post soon, that peals off right after the 4th bolt. BUT, since this climb is a good warm up for Gold, it'd be more fun to just start on the project bolts for this one, or just use gear all the way, and then use the bolts for Gold. The gear on this one is a bit run out and I wouldn't recommend getting on this unless you're comfortable on LD trad climbing at the grade. Apr 1, 2013
David Sampson
Tempe AZ,
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Some may consider the gear placements "poor" on this climb. I would not recommend getting on this climb unless you are comfortable with moderate (to good) gear in rock of lesser quality with longish run-outs. Apr 10, 2013
Chris Adams
Mesa, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] This route can be top roped with a 70M. There are currently NO rap ‘biners at the anchors. (As of 11/12/2020) Nov 12, 2020
David Sampson
Tempe AZ,
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I will never understand those (unthinking) climbers that see biners on an anchor (as designed here and many of my routes; two hangers, two quick links, and two carabiners) and think they found booty. I guess (hope) they soon realize the use of the biners; pulling a rope threaded through two quick links on hangers is challenging at best. Feb 8, 2021