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Routes in Space Balls Wall

Beam You Down S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bleeps, Sweeps, and the Creeps, The T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Comb the Desert! T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dink Dink S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dot Matrix T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hail Screwed T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hyperactive Speed T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lonestar S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ludicrous Speed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over My Helmet T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Pizza the Hut T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Power Of the Schwartz T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Princess Vespa S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: Jesse Zacher
Page Views: 2,198 total, 32/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Apr 23, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

A few bolts protect the approach up towards the left-facing dihedral. The balancy moves through the bolts is the crux. Once you gain the crack in the corner, it is a straightforward jam on featured rock until the apex of the crack where a large ledge traverse left leads you to a cruxy move to the ledge with shared anchors for The Bleeps, Sweeps, and the Creeps. If you go far left of the large ledge and place gear, you can gain a seam just below the roof and traverse in, and over the ledge to the anchors.

Protection

QDs, a single set from #0.3-#2, (2)#3's, nuts.

Location

This is the bolt line 15 feet right of The Bleeps, Sweeps, and the Creeps below the obvious dihedral. A single 60 gets you to the broken ledge where you can downclimb.

Photos

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Jesse Zacher
Grand Junction, Co
 
Jesse Zacher   Grand Junction, Co  
 
Lots of slings help with rope drag! Apr 27, 2012