Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: Gillett & Jasperson
Page Views: 382 total · 5/month
Shared By: Evan S on Apr 23, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

I may have the name wrong, but this is the right-side route on the Shangri-La Slab. Start behind a tree, making some .9+ moves up to a rightward traverse under a "wave" of rock. Plug a cam or two in the crack, haul up and over to the crux headwall. There is a move that felt .10c to me, but really only the one. Very nice climb overall.

Protection

At least 9 draws for the bolts, and a few medium cams. You can escape right to the gully if you have a couple bigger pieces.

Photos

JFM
  5.10b
JFM  
  5.10b
This one is referred to as High Noon in Gillett's guide, FA: Gillett & Jasperson (2003).

I used WC cams #1.5 and #2.5 to protect the mantle/crack. Apr 26, 2014