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Tides of Mind- North Face

5.11, Trad, 60 ft (18 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.7 from 10 votes
FA: Jeff Cristol- Solo 1989, FFA:Keen Butterworth, George Arms 1990
Utah > Southeast Utah > Valley of the Gods > Tides of Mind
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


Pitch 1: Begin up the right faceing crack on mostly thin hand, then angle left on easier terrain into right angling hands to thin hands (crux) to ledge with fixed anchor.

Pitch 2: Climb 3rd class terrain to top of tower then downclimb back to anchor.

Descent: Single rope rap from two drilled pins.


Northeast face


Single rack of cams from green alien (.3) to #3 camalot. With multiples of .75, #1, & #2 Camalots.

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Bill rappeling off Tides of Mind.
[Hide Photo] Bill rappeling off Tides of Mind.
Tides of Mind
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Tides of Mind
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Pretty sure they were bolts on top. They just had rusty hangers. Apr 23, 2012
[Hide Comment] Best free route I've done in the VOG and a classic by any standards. For small-handed folk, I think the grade is more like a soft 11- I had solid hand jams the entire way. Mar 9, 2015
Trevor Bowman
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] Excellent pitch with the best rock in the VOG. If I did it again, I'd take: (1x) .4-.5, (2x) .75 (3-4x) 1 (2x) 2 (1x) 3 BD C4 sizes. 4 #1 Camalots will not go unused if that's a hard size for you. Anchors were decent looking 3/8" wedge bolts with homemade hangers (little rusty); a great community service would be adding chains (a foot or so chunks). Mar 9, 2015

[Hide Comment] terrific route. this would be a classic anywhere. bring a bunch of #1 camalots - my partner had to do some budgeting to hold on to them. they will easily go in almost anywhere. May 2, 2017
Spencer Cone
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] Awesome climb! I concur with the above comments about #1 camalots, I took 3 and wished I had two more. Anchor bolts look like they have been replaced recently, thanks to whatever party provided the service! Mar 23, 2020