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Natural Born Drillers

5.12c, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 25 votes
FA: Nad & Goss
Utah > Southwest Utah > Saint George > Welcome Springs > Cathedral

Description

This is the first route at the Cathedral and one of the longest - it takes a traversing line linking great natural features before busting straight up to the rim for the final few clips. Several cruxes and good rests comprise this wonderful pump-fest.

Begin as for Speaking in Tongues (by far a more popular route - though it shouldn't be) on the right side of the cave. A difficult undercling move that isn't so bad if you can stay glued to the glassy feet leads to better holds. There's a shallow no-hands knee bar before the route moves right where Tongues moves left. Here you must pass two very poorly placed bolts - they are too low and too far to the right of the climbing, making the clips difficult and the climbing unsettling. In any case, move right to a huge hueco, then right again to a smaller, but perhaps better one that is home to an abandoned peregrine nest. Hope that there is a long sling on the next bolt as you move up on some cobbles in a shallow depression on the wall. A few more moves up and right around an arete-like feature lead to a great stance and opportunity for complete recovery. Easy stemming up a corner culminates in a big move to a good hole, and another rest before the final run to the chains: This section is steep and uncharacteristically crimpy, but it also has the nicest rock. The anchor is tough to clip.

Use a 70m cord and when you lower redirect through a midway chain anchor to land on the starting platform. With a shorter rope you'll need to lower twice using the aforementioned anchor.

Protection

16 bolts or so?