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Routes in The Cathedral

Epiphany, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Golden S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Golden Direct S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Holy Shit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Irrational Exuberance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Natural Born Drillers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pagan Rituals S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raising Cain S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sacrilege S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Solid Gold S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Spaceshuttle to Kolob S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Speaking In Tongues S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spring Loaded S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Worshipping The Limestone Gods S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Nad & Goss
Page Views: 1,992 total, 29/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

This is the first route at the Cathedral and one of the longest - it takes a traversing line linking great natural features before busting straight up to the rim for the final few clips. Several cruxes and good rests comprise this wonderful pump-fest.

Begin as for Speaking in Tongues (by far a more popular route - though it shouldn't be) on the right side of the cave. A difficult undercling move that isn't so bad if you can stay glued to the glassy feet leads to better holds. There's a shallow no-hands knee bar before the route moves right where Tongues moves left. Here you must pass two very poorly placed bolts - they are too low and too far to the right of the climbing, making the clips difficult and the climbing unsettling. In any case, move right to a huge hueco, then right again to a smaller, but perhaps better one that is home to an abandoned peregrine nest. Hope that there is a long sling on the next bolt as you move up on some cobbles in a shallow depression on the wall. A few more moves up and right around an arete-like feature lead to a great stance and opportunity for complete recovery. Easy stemming up a corner culminates in a big move to a good hole, and another rest before the final run to the chains: This section is steep and uncharacteristically crimpy, but it also has the nicest rock. The anchor is tough to clip.

Use a 70m cord and when you lower redirect through a midway chain anchor to land on the starting platform. With a shorter rope you'll need to lower twice using the aforementioned anchor.

Protection

16 bolts or so?

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