Avg: 3.5 from 37 votes
|Type:||Trad, 120 ft|
|FA:||Jeff Kelley & Matt Arksey|
|Page Views:||5,505 total · 54/month|
|Shared By:||Jon Nelson on Apr 22, 2012|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
1) The novel coronavirus and Index residents.
Residents of Index are very concerned about visitors spreading the virus to them. Please be considerate by taking some serious precautions such as
- Be extra safe to greatly reduce the chance of needing a rescue. (Choose partner carefully, just TR routes. Triple-check setups...)
- Do not interact with the people in town or on a trail. (Choose an obscure crag & route. Drive carefully through town.)
- In case the above two precautions fail or you come across someone on a trail or crag, bring a facemask and gloves to wear to prevent spreading the virus from your breath or hands. In lieu of a facemask, a bandana or scarf over the nose and mouth can also reduce the spread of fine droplets from your nose and mouth when you speak. Also, try to keep the 6-foot recommended distance from other people.
2) 2020 Seasonal raptor closure: Our resident pair of Peregrines selected a nest site on the 6th pitch of Sabbra Cadabra this year, similar to 2016 and 2018 nesting seasons. Please do not climb in the area shown here until approximately July 15, 2020. This includes the upper pitches of Sabbra Cadabra, Black Radish, and Hell Bent for Glory.
Every spring, Washington State Parks, WDFW, Access Fund, and Washington Climbers Coalition partner to identify the nest site of Index's Peregrine falcons. Once identified, a spot closure is instituted around the selected nest site through approximately July 15th. Report potential raptor nesting activity to firstname.lastname@example.org. Big thanks to WDFW and the climbers who are assisting with the Index Volunteer Raptor Monitoring Program each year, and to Patagonia & Feathered Friends for additional support of the Newhalem and Index raptor programs!
Pitch 1 starts with face climbing on large holds (~20', and in need of cleaning as of 4/2012). Then one enters an incut, bolt-protected, right-leaning corner (~9+/10a). See the bottom red arrow in the picture. About 30' up the corner, the corner system splits into two. The original route went up the shallower left corner (~5.9) (next red arrow), which then traversed back into the right corner at a bolt (5.10) (see 3rd red arrow in photo). But staying in the right corner (green arrow) gives fun 5.9+ climbing, a mixture of face-climbing and thin jams. Where the two variations merge, the climbing goes up a slot with excellent pinch-grips on the rib (~5.8+). The pitch ends on the top of the pedestal, and has 3 bolts with chains.
Pitch 2 goes up the next corner on the left. It looks like a great corner, but as of July 10, 2012, it is a bit dirty and hard to protect. But you can instead do the pitch to the right, "A Ship Called Black Rock". See the separate description for this pitch.
The first pitch anchor is about 20' right of that for A group of mysteries of frenchwoman. With a short belay, one can move the anchor to toprope one or the other. To rap off with one rope, you might need to go to the Frenchwoman anchor and rap to the strange boar anchor. From the strange boar anchor, you can rap to the ground with one 60-m rope.
If you stay to the right (the easier way), you clip 5 bolts at the bottom, and have the option of clipping 2 more up higher, though one is an old 1/4" next to a crack. If you go left, for the harder variation, you will clip one other bolt at the crux.