Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Jeff Kelley & Matt Arksey
Page Views: 4,111 total · 48/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Apr 22, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure: Upper Cheeks Details

Description

Long corner system to the right of Rice Krispies and Spit.

Pitch 1 starts with face climbing on large holds (~20', and in need of cleaning as of 4/2012). Then one enters an incut, bolt-protected, right-leaning corner (~9+/10a). See the bottom red arrow in the picture. About 30' up the corner, the corner system splits into two. The original route went up the shallower left corner (~5.9) (next red arrow), which then traversed back into the right corner at a bolt (5.10) (see 3rd red arrow in photo). But staying in the right corner (green arrow) gives fun 5.9+ climbing, a mixture of face-climbing and thin jams. Where the two variations merge, the climbing goes up a slot with excellent pinch-grips on the rib (~5.8+). The pitch ends on the top of the pedestal, and has 3 bolts with chains.

Pitch 2 goes up the next corner on the left. It looks like a great corner, but as of July 10, 2012, it is a bit dirty and hard to protect. But you can instead do the pitch to the right, "A Ship Called Black Rock". See the separate description for this pitch.

The first pitch anchor is about 20' right of that for A group of mysteries of frenchwoman. With a short belay, one can move the anchor to toprope one or the other. To rap off with one rope, you might need to go to the Frenchwoman anchor and rap to the strange boar anchor. From the strange boar anchor, you can rap to the ground with one 60-m rope.

Location

On the Lookout Point trail, continue about 40 feet past Baby tapir, Strange boar, and Rice krispies.

Protection

Nut and cams to 2", 5-6 quickdraws for bolts.

If you stay to the right (the easier way), you clip 5 bolts at the bottom, and have the option of clipping 2 more up higher, though one is an old 1/4" next to a crack. If you go left, for the harder variation, you will clip one other bolt at the crux.

Photos