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The Naked Rib
5.10c R,
Trad, Sport, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 4 from 9
votes
FA: Paul Muehl & Pete Delannoy 1980's?
S Dakota
> Custer SP
> Cathedral Spires
> Bartizan Wall
Description
A lesser known and rarely climbed needles classic. This route has plenty of exposure and run-outs on great face climbing. Only seven bolts on the 60m second pitch ;)
1. 90' 5.8; Scramble up to the base, start original route on the E side following dihedrals and flakes. Or start up higher in the gully on the W side for shorter, easier, more direct approach. Belay at a large flake on a ledge. Single rack.
2. 190' 5.10c; Straight up the rib, climb through short crux at the first bolt. Getting to the second bolt is the R section, but gets easier the further out you get. Micro gear can be placed out right to reduce the distance between bolts five and six. Don't climb the crack, stay left. Finish on the airy, low angle arête. Anything from a BD .5 - #3 will work for an anchor. 70m rope recommended.
Location
Left/West side of Bartizan Wall. This is the prominent S facing rib just on the right side of a large grassy gully. Rap down the backside (NSR) and into the grassy gully to the W. Single 80m will get you down, otherwise double ropes needed.
Protection
7 bolts
Long slings
BD .5 - #3 for anchor
[Hide Photo] iPhone shot down the arête. Several no-hands breathers on this pitch. 10/2/16.
[Hide Photo] Nathan Erickson cruising up the 1st pitch of The Naked Rib, Sept 2020, Photo-Ehren Stellrecht
Rapid City, SD