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Routes in Bartizan Wall

Crack of Earthly Delights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elrod's Epic T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kevizan T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Naked Rib, The T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Storming the Castle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Window on the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 280 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Paul Muehl & Pete Delannoy 1980's?
Page Views: 911 total · 11/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Apr 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

A lesser known and rarely climbed needles classic. This route has plenty of exposure and run-outs on great face climbing. Only seven bolts on the 60m second pitch ;)

1. 90' 5.8; Scramble up to the base, start original route on the E side following dihedrals and flakes. Or start up higher in the gully on the W side for shorter, easier, more direct approach. Belay at a large flake on a ledge. Single rack.

2. 190' 5.10c; Straight up the rib, climb through short crux at the first bolt. Getting to the second bolt is the R section, but gets easier the further out you get. Micro gear can be placed out right to reduce the distance between bolts five and six. Don't climb the crack, stay left. Finish on the airy, low angle arête. Anything from a BD .5 - #3 will work for an anchor. 70m rope recommended.

Location

Left/West side of Bartizan Wall. This is the prominent S facing rib just on the right side of a large grassy gully. Rap down the backside (NSR) and into the grassy gully to the W. Single 80m will get you down, otherwise double ropes needed.

Protection

7 bolts
Long slings
BD .5 - #3 for anchor

Photos

Chris Hirsch
Rapid City, SD
  5.10c
Chris Hirsch   Rapid City, SD
  5.10c
Now equipped with new hardware, replaced by BHCC 9/28/14. Sep 29, 2014
Kris Gorny

  5.10c R
Kris Gorny    
  5.10c R
Incredible arête climbing. The first pitch has a little 5.9 sting to it. The second pitch is airy and amazing. 60m ropes just make it to the belay. We've left a pair of slings with biners on top to rap. Kudos to the crew who had the vision and put this route up! Oct 5, 2016

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