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Kid Fears

5.11a R, Trad, 80 ft,  Avg: 3.8 from 4 votes
FA: Angier Wills, Jim Dowdy, ~1988
Georgia > Mt Yonah > Main Face

Description

Climb to the flake ledge. Step up and right past two bolts to a rightward rising seam. Traverse right along the seam to the third bolt. Go straight up and then trend left to the bolted anchor.

Location

Shares the start and anchors with Afternoon Delight. The two climbs diverge off of the flake ledge, AD to the left and KF to the right.

Protection

Three bolts and maybe a couple of marginal placements...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] At 11c the book is a bit generous. The difficulty is equivalent to that of Afternoon Delight. The run from the last bolt, past the crux, to the anchor is probably 30 feet.

Oct 6, 2012
Stephen Felker
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Angier or Jim, what grade did you place on this route originally? Mar 22, 2016
James Dowdy
  5.11a R
[Hide Comment] Angier Wills and I put this route up in the Fall of 1989 - it is beautiful line.
We initially rated it 5.11b/c relative to the difficulties of 'Afternoon Delight.'
However: in hindsight, an 11a R rating is probably more accurate.
[In my estimation, with modern rubber, 'Afternoon Delight' is closer to 5.10d.]

NOTE: there is minimal injury potential to a competent leader - the R rating is simply an indicator of the mental commitment required to make sketchy smears *WAY* above the bolt!

FWIW: I have no idea what the 'Direct Start' refers to...Angier and I always began directly below the first bolt (positioned above the flake).

Have fun!

Jim Mar 22, 2016