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Routes in Central Battleship Formation

C-5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Honeyshine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poop Deck T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Project TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Red, Yellow, Blue T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
S Church Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2-3
Sugar Briches T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trim Your Bush T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Mitchell Allen, Michael Thomas
Page Views: 399 total · 5/month
Shared By: Mitchell Allen on Apr 21, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Dihedral crack that starts out as fingers laybacking and widens to hands and a solid fist jam as you pull over the top. The top is the crux and is pretty awkward. Then follow the low angle up a few feet and belay from a bush back from the edge.

Location

This route is the short and bouldery, left-facing dihedral located at the northernmost end of the formation.

Protection

Small pieces up to a #3.5 camalot with a few hand-size pieces. The name of the route is what we used to protect the route, a red number 1 camalot that you can reach and place a ways up right from the starting boulder, a yellow number 2 camalot, and a blue number 3 camalot right before you top out. There are other optional placements.

Photos

Grimpeur
  5.10
Grimpeur  
  5.10
Bolted anchors have been added to this route Aug 7, 2017
Ben Horton
  5.9
Ben Horton  
  5.9
Decent but short. If you do the top correctly it goes pretty easy. Took me a couple attempts to find the "right" way because I was unsure of whether I'd slip on the lichen. I rated it 5.9 because without the lichen it would be a simple slab move, and there are lots of good stances. (It also may have felt easy because I have huge hands) Jun 13, 2018

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