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Routes in The Flatiron

Little Porky T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Other White Meat Arete , The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Puckered Pork T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Salt Packed Pig Sack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Jon Sykes rope-solo after he & Bill Keiler TR'd the route
Page Views: 1,844 total, 27/month
Shared By: steve chardon on Apr 20, 2012 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

[NOTE: The submitter of this route had done "The Other White Meat" thinking it was "Little Porky" and listed it as such. With his permission I have corrected this error and also moved the one photo to "Other White Meat", and deleted any non-pertinent comments. The description below is for Little Porky and abstracted from The Notches, by Jon Sykes. See that guidebook for more details. R Hall NH Admin. Oct 2017]

"Start at bottom right side of the buttress" and climb the crack system "to the front face". 60 ft

Location

Right and below "The Other White Meat"

Protection

Trad rack, there's one bolt

Photos

- No Photos -
Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
Ryan Loiselle   Pepperell, MA
Little Porky is a mixed route (60 ft) that is located at the frontside bottom of SPPS buttress. It follows a broken crack system to a bolt and tops-out at the top of the buttress.

[Edit- Yes, this has now been corrected. R Hall NH Admin.] Oct 25, 2017
David Ford
Cambridge, MA
 
David Ford   Cambridge, MA
 
Sykes calls this "Little Porky," not sure if it goes by any other names. A great route in a spectacular setting, in any case.

EDIT! I just re-read this section of the guidebook and realized that "Little Porky" is actually an entirely different 5.9 on the right side of this formation... apparently a short pitch on the buttress that forms the start that this route and Salt Packed share. Sorry for causing confusion. I guess we're back to not knowing what this climb is called, but it's still great.

[Edit- Yes, this has now been corrected. R Hall NH Admin.] Jul 26, 2012
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Come on Steve,, your not that old !!! Apr 23, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
This is an excerpt from the American Alpine Club website:

National Climbing Classification System (USA):

NCCS grades are often called the “Commitment Grade”; they primarily indicate the time investment in a route for an “average” climbing team.
Grade I: Less than half a day for the technical portion.
Grade II: Half a day for the technical portion.
Grade III: Most of a day for the technical portion.
Grade IV: A full day of technical climbing, generally at least 5.7.
Grade V: Typically requires an overnight on the route.
Grade VI: Two or more days of hard technical climbing.
Grade VII: Remote big walls climbed in alpine style.

So in this case you would give it a Grade I, if you put any on there. I personally would not put a commitment grade for this just because it is only 1 pitch of actual rock climbing. Apr 23, 2012
sorry on the grade and the descriptions. i'm 55 and haven't climbed for years :-) just getting back into it. what grade is a single pitch climb? by "slings" mean 2 foot runners w/ biners. old school ... Apr 23, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
That would be a great time! Apr 22, 2012
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
would be fun though huh :)
Ps. i edited it, must have been a mistake... Apr 21, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
Grade V? I think this is incorrect. I dont see needing to spend a night on either of these routes... Apr 21, 2012