Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,276 total · 13/month
Shared By: steve chardon on Apr 20, 2012
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Location

From the approach gully, look up and locate a single bolt 20 feet up just above the lip of an overlap. This is the start.

Description

This route, like it’s sister routes to the right, is steep and exposed, but with good (read safe as well) protection. From the approach gully, climb the face below a lone bolt at an overlap. Protect as desired below the overlap, then reach out on good holds and clip the bolt. Take special care to plan well to avoid rope drag. It’s best to clip this bolt with a two foot sling. If you don’t plan well (as I didn’t) the face above will be more like solid 5.10 than 5.9+. Surmount the overlap by stepping left and then back right. Clip a pin then ascend to the base of the main face. Protect the move onto the face with a mid-sized TCU and step out! Great face climbing with a few thinner “crux” areas. Follow the bolts to the top and a two bolt anchor. Two ropes needed for rappel.

Protection

Bring 8-10 slings and 8 draws, one set 0-4 Metolius TCU’s or eq, and 4-6 Zero’s or eq.

Photos