Type: Trad, Boulder, 25 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 1,153 total · 13/month
Shared By: Ryan Strong on Apr 19, 2012
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, chris tregge, James Schroeder

You & This Route


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Description

Route 57 in Sven's book. Short but very enjoyable crack climb. Better off bouldering this route.

Location

First good looking crack on the left if approaching the guillotine from the flat iron boulder. Route: 57 in Sven's book.

Protection

Pads or medium stoppers.

Photos

Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
How is a V0 equivalent to 5.4?? Lol Lake grades... Feb 22, 2019
James Schroeder
Fort Collins, CO
  5.4 V-easy
James Schroeder   Fort Collins, CO  
  5.4 V-easy
Ted,

It's actually a function of a couple things that don't have anything to do with "Lake grades" - rather it has mostly to do with "Mountain Projectiness". As a route it's 5.4 and as a problem it's V-Easy. Though the MP User-submitted grades as of 2/26/19 are:

Boulder:
V1
V0
V0
V0-
V-easy

Route:
5.4

Because both "5.4" and "V0" are the middle of the pack (how MP "averages" the grade), they both get selected as the consensus. It would take four more votes for "V-easy" (without any other "non-V-easy" votes) to move the grade to the correct rating. Because "V-easy" is the bottom of the scale there's an inherent "lognormality" to the way MP averages the grades because it takes five "correct" votes to offset four votes that are for whatever reason featherbagged.

This has nothing to do with the Lake in particular. It's likely a combination of several factors like people not wanting to be the guy who rates something lower than consensus, or a 5.4 with required (at least to climb it at 5.4) jamming, or a number of other possibilities.

More importantly, it's classic. You should do it the next time you're coming down from the East Rampart, then submit your own vote for its grade! Feb 26, 2019
Tradiban
5.9+ V0 PG13
Tradiban  
5.9+ V0 PG13
Don't over-think it, fellas.

This is a fine crack. Feb 26, 2019
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
'there's an inherent "lognormality" ' - too much time doing econometrics, James! Feb 27, 2019
James Schroeder
Fort Collins, CO
  5.4 V-easy
James Schroeder   Fort Collins, CO  
  5.4 V-easy
Doug,

"When all you have is a hammer..." Feb 27, 2019
Ryan Strong
Golden, CO
  V1
Ryan Strong   Golden, CO
  V1
I think if you climb this route with a top rope it may feel like 5.4

And by 5.4 ( lake grade ) I imagine this would be more 5.8 ish other places .

If you boulder it with no rope and no pad it will feel a little more stout. Where v0 is a more realistic grade than v easy . Feb 27, 2019