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Routes in Lost T

CB Love Grannys T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Coach and Mary T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Courtney Marie's Boobies T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Crimps Are For Pimps T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Dike, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Emily Doesn't Have a Clue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Expiration 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat People Are Harder To Kidnap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Star Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Flavor of the Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freckles and No Lipstick T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Keegans 5.8 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keyhole, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Little Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mean Sister T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Parthenope T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Spelunking Midget T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ten B T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Waiting for the Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wide Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 195 total · 2/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Apr 18, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Climb face to bolts to anchor (shared with Little Kisses). Look all around for gear, it's there.


On the face between Little Kisses and Five Star Crack.


Bolts, standard rack, small cams useful


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Michael John Gray
Queensbury, NY
Michael John Gray   Queensbury, NY
Little Kisses is one of the best crack climbs in the Southern Adirondack and Five Star Crack is not far off as well for their respective grades. This route seems to border on route crowding. I can understand bolting a featured face that has no pro otherwise, but I would say that a bunch of bolts crowding perfectly good crack climbs is a bit over the top. Contrived isn't necessarily a bad thing, but if it starts to crowd out "natural" lines for the sake of one more route, I think it crosses the line, kind of begging the question "Why not climb one of the cracks and TR the face between?" Just saying... does not fit the narrative of typical ADK tradition. Overuse of bolts, bolting next to bomber gear, and bolting unnatural lines i.e. "traverses" does not either. Apr 18, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
The bolting of this line might have a lot to do with the style of climbing for locals established at Moss Island (Little Falls), where routes are literally a couple feet from each other at times (crowded). I can imagine the tendency is to try and squeeze as many climbs into Lost T in a similar manner, resulting in climbs like this being put up. The bolting was probably unnecessary, I doubt we'll see many wanting to lead it which means it probably could have served its purpose just as well as a top rope climb and left as a R/X without bolts. Plus, the bolts are literally 3 feet apart near the top. If you're leading 5.11 and can't stand more than 3 feet of distance between pro might I suggest going back to the gym and getting one's lead head in better shape? Apr 26, 2012
Michael John Gray
Queensbury, NY
Michael John Gray   Queensbury, NY
I have never been to Little Falls. Although I could see the point, this is not Little Falls. My only concern is does this set a standard for others to seek justification? There is amazing climbing here!! Cheers and enjoy! =) Apr 26, 2012
Albany, NY
Bowzer   Albany, NY
I did not find this line to be crowded or contrived. On the contrary, I found it to be an incredibly enjoyable, and very obvious, line. Also, I didn't find the bolts on this route had any impact on the quality of Little Kisses. Regardless, Lost T is an amazing place and I appreciate the effort put into it by the developers. Aug 25, 2013

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