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Routes in Lost T

CB Love Grannys T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Coach and Mary T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Courtney Marie's Boobies T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Crimps Are For Pimps T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Dike, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Emily Doesn't Have a Clue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Expiration 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat People Are Harder To Kidnap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Star Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Flavor of the Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freckles and No Lipstick T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Keegans 5.8 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keyhole, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Little Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mean Sister T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Parthenope T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Spelunking Midget T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ten B T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Waiting for the Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wide Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,543 total, 37/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Apr 18, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

Climb to bolt (crux) then up crack to the bolted anchor.

Location

Middle of the cliff, below a bolt 15 feet up and a long crack that goes to the top.

Protection

Bolt, standard rack (small cams useful)

Photos

ChapelPondGirl
Keene, NY
  5.9- PG13
ChapelPondGirl   Keene, NY
  5.9- PG13
Very beautiful line, the climbing is fluid. The jams are superb. This pitch would be right at home at the base of the Grand Wall in Squamish. But, as in other routes, I struggled to understand why there was a bolt so far off the ground that it was rendered useless. You have to climb through the boulder crux to clip it. There is adequate protection below if you are a competent 5.9 leader. By the time you get to the bolt it is basically useless. Oct 16, 2016
Don Redmond (230 lb of muscle) broke off part of the starting hold in June 2016. Fortunately the start difficultly has not changed much; getting to that first bolt is a challenge for the 5.9 leader Jul 17, 2016
Jay Harrison  
 
Stick-clip that first bolt: the hardest move is getting to it.
If this route had a view, it would be among the top 3 single pitch routes in NYS. The moves are lithified ecstacy. Apr 20, 2012
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Perhaps a moderate 5.9 for the ADK's, and especially when compared to Mystery Achievement across the road. But who cares - its still very worth doing. Beautiful pitch!!!! Apr 20, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
Very sustained climb. There's arguably several 5.9 moves, but the crux is getting to the bolt. Can get a couple small nuts before the bolt. This is considered by most to be the best climb at Lost T. Apr 18, 2012