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Routes in Lost T

CB Love Grannys T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Coach and Mary T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Courtney Marie's Boobies T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Crimps Are For Pimps T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Dike, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Emily Doesn't Have a Clue T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Expiration 66 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fat People Are Harder To Kidnap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Star Crack T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Flavor of the Day S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freckles and No Lipstick T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Keegans 5.8 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Keyhole, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Little Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mean Sister T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Parthenope T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Spelunking Midget T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ten B T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unnamed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Waiting for the Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Wide Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 977 total, 14/month
Shared By: Kevin Heckeler on Apr 18, 2012
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

Climbs bolts up face/cracks to anchors.

Location

5 feet right (downhill) from Ten B at a face with seams and a bolt 12 feet up.

Protection

Bolts, standard rack

Photos

- No Photos -
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
ChapelPondGirl, you obviously didn't get the memo above that your (contrary) opinion should never be expressed publicly. ;-) Oct 17, 2016
ChapelPondGirl
Keene, NY
ChapelPondGirl   Keene, NY
As in some other routes on this cliff, the notion of putting stick a clip bolt high enough of the ground to protect the opening moves seems to cheapen the experience. there is adequate gear to protect the opening moves of all of these climbs, provided one is proficient at placing gear at that given grade. It seems like artificially removing that challenge makes it easier for people to not have to consider protection until they are well off the ground. This may be the route setters intent, but it saddens me because these are all predominantly traditional lines, and that is part of the challenge of a traditional rock climb.

I sort of feel like if you want to make it safe, put in an extra bolt, instead of the crazy high stick clip.

But as Jim stated, they have clearly put in a lot of work here, and created some really fun climbing opportunities. However, the base of the cliff seems to have been aggressively clear cut...hmmmm. Oct 16, 2016
I found this to be significantly harder than Little Kisses. And, for the record, I was happy to stick clip the first bolt.

Edit - ah ha! That's because it's not 5.9 any longer (a hold had broken off). Aug 28, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
TR'd this and it's a nice climb, probably worth another star. Has a couple tricky spots that were not obvious attacking it straight on. Aug 5, 2012
Jim Lawyer    
 
I thought we were talking about Freckles, not The Dike. Anyway, to locate the FAers, you could start here. Should be pretty easy to locate several of these people, as it's a small community. May 29, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
Jim, if you're ever at Lost T check out the bolted traverse at the start of: mountainproject.com/v/the-d…

Fwiw, I don't know or know who the bolters for this area are. I can only make assumptions based on observations. If things were done 'properly' 3 of these climbs wouldn't be raising any eyebrows. May 28, 2012
Jim Lawyer    
 
I'm guessing that the high bolt is for stick clipping. In this case, perhaps they thought the need to stick clip overrode the no-bolts-next-to-cracks ethic?

While I too disagree with this approach, I don't think it's appropriate to call them "inexperienced", or say that they're "doing whatever the hell they want". The developers of this cliff are thoughtful route planners, and have worked extremely hard to make a nice cliff. Think hundreds of hours of scrubbing!

I recommend contacting the route setters, show appropriate appreciation for their hard work, and have a productive discussion about their choices. Maybe you can convince them to change it. May 23, 2012
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
 
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
 
I agree Nick. I just added some info to the main page to indicate this isn't traditional ethic in the Adirondacks. Apr 26, 2012
Nick Weinberg
Lyme, NH
Nick Weinberg   Lyme, NH
Not sure why there is a bolt next to the crack. This isn't Europe you know..... Apr 20, 2012