Freckles and No Lipstick

Not sure why there is a bolt next to the crack. This isn't Europe you know..... Apr 20, 2012

I agree Nick. I just added some info to the main page to indicate this isn't traditional ethic in the Adirondacks. Apr 26, 2012

I'm guessing that the high bolt is for stick clipping. In this case, perhaps they thought the need to stick clip overrode the no-bolts-next-to-cracks ethic?

While I too disagree with this approach, I don't think it's appropriate to call them "inexperienced", or say that they're "doing whatever the hell they want". The developers of this cliff are thoughtful route planners, and have worked extremely hard to make a nice cliff. Think hundreds of hours of scrubbing!

I recommend contacting the route setters, show appropriate appreciation for their hard work, and have a productive discussion about their choices. Maybe you can convince them to change it. May 23, 2012

Jim, if you're ever at Lost T check out the bolted traverse at the start of: mountainproject.com/v/the-d…

Fwiw, I don't know or know who the bolters for this area are. I can only make assumptions based on observations. If things were done 'properly' 3 of these climbs wouldn't be raising any eyebrows. May 28, 2012

I thought we were talking about Freckles, not The Dike. Anyway, to locate the FAers, you could start here. Should be pretty easy to locate several of these people, as it's a small community. May 29, 2012

TR'd this and it's a nice climb, probably worth another star. Has a couple tricky spots that were not obvious attacking it straight on. Aug 5, 2012

I found this to be significantly harder than Little Kisses. And, for the record, I was happy to stick clip the first bolt.

Edit - ah ha! That's because it's not 5.9 any longer (a hold had broken off). Aug 28, 2012

As in some other routes on this cliff, the notion of putting stick a clip bolt high enough of the ground to protect the opening moves seems to cheapen the experience. there is adequate gear to protect the opening moves of all of these climbs, provided one is proficient at placing gear at that given grade. It seems like artificially removing that challenge makes it easier for people to not have to consider protection until they are well off the ground. This may be the route setters intent, but it saddens me because these are all predominantly traditional lines, and that is part of the challenge of a traditional rock climb.

I sort of feel like if you want to make it safe, put in an extra bolt, instead of the crazy high stick clip.

But as Jim stated, they have clearly put in a lot of work here, and created some really fun climbing opportunities. However, the base of the cliff seems to have been aggressively clear cut...hmmmm. Oct 16, 2016

ChapelPondGirl, you obviously didn't get the memo above that your (contrary) opinion should never be expressed publicly. ;-) Oct 17, 2016