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Routes in Upper Fifth Canyon

7) Identity Crisis S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
???? S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Diamond T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bonzai T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
F.S.R. S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Taters For Out Of Staters S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gyno Boy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
In Reverse S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
LSH T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Layback S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lost Arrow Spur S,TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Mangled up in blue S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mangler, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peter Beater S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spur of the Moment S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport
FA: Grady Roberts
Page Views: 482 total, 7/month
Shared By: Scott Coldiron on Apr 16, 2012
Admins: WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

Pulling the first roof is the crux. You get two holds that are just good enough to get you over the lip to a crimpy rail. Now you face a long move with no good feet to establish yourself on the vertical face. Fun and juggy over the second roof, you'll work up a good pump to the chains!

Location

Upper Fifth Canyon, left side, scramble 15' up to the ledge- Gyno Boy is third from the left. Goes over two roofs- really steep roof start to clean vertical face.

Protection

6 bolts to chains. ***NOTE*** you should bring a long draw or sling to place above the first roof. A standard draw will load the biner over the sharp roof edge! and it's easy to fall here- kinda cruxy

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