Type: Trad, 20 ft (6 m)
FA: Lynn Wheeler & Jay Andersen in 1983
Page Views: 602 total · 5/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Apr 16, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Short. This one makes Plumb Line seem like a full 60m pitch. 6-7 finger locks, a few .3 camalots and your on top. Not a gimme, but the length makes it an easy onsight for your ego. Could be bouldered honestly if you feel good about it. I chose not to but its that short. Do a couple laps continuously to actually make it seem like a real climb.

Location

Hike up huge hill to the memorial day buttress. This is the obvious short right leaning finger crack that ends in lots of bushels atop a small ledge. Not hard to find. Can be seen from the road if you look hard enough.

Protection

single set tcu's, small nuts. Completely worthless rusted piece of ___ bolt that should not be used sits above the ledge as a severely not recommended anchor. Build a nest of small gear atop the crack to lower off, or lasso a small bushel(scary?) then when you're finished clean it and downclimb the 5.5 crack to the right.

Photos