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Routes in Memorial Day Buttress

Aggression T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Casual n' Kind T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dave Anderson Memorial Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2- PG13
Judas Priest T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Memorial Day Route T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: Lynn Wheeler & Jay Andersen in 1983
Page Views: 100 total, 1/month
Shared By: Spencer Weiler on Apr 16, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Short. This one makes Plumb Line seem like a full 60m pitch. 6-7 finger locks, a few .3 camalots and your on top. Not a gimme, but the length makes it an easy onsight for your ego. Could be bouldered honestly if you feel good about it. I chose not to but its that short. Do a couple laps continuously to actually make it seem like a real climb.

Location

Hike up huge hill to the memorial day buttress. This is the obvious short right leaning finger crack that ends in lots of bushels atop a small ledge. Not hard to find. Can be seen from the road if you look hard enough.

Protection

single set tcu's, small nuts. Completely worthless rusted piece of ___ bolt that should not be used sits above the ledge as a severely not recommended anchor. Build a nest of small gear atop the crack to lower off, or lasso a small bushel(scary?) then when you're finished clean it and downclimb the 5.5 crack to the right.

Photos

bsmoot  
F.A. Lynn Wheeler & Jay Andersen in 1983

Just prior to the first ascent, Lynn and I worked on this route experimenting with thin toed ked's which fit better in the narrow crack than the old climbing shoes that were available at the time. We each got within a move or two of the top that afternoon. A few days later, Lynn sent it. Apr 18, 2012