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Routes in Entrance Boulders

603 Special V0 4
Billie Jean V0- 4-
Bobby's Arete V7- 7A+
Bobby's Problem V7 7A+
Caver's Problem V5 6C
Cavers Direct V8+ 7B+
Dirty Diana V0- 4-
Doppelganger V2+ 5+
Entrance Arete V1+ 5
Mr. Crawley V0- 4-
Offset Corner V0 4
Opilio V1+ 5
Razor Blade Romance V3- 6A
Tallboy V2 5+
Tragic Inspiration V1 5
Trailside Crack V1 5
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder
FA: Dave Graham
Page Views: 1,092 total, 16/month
Shared By: mattgiossi on Apr 16, 2012 with updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Sit direct for Cavers problem. Start half way in cave on a small left sidepull and a tiny right crimp V10 (original way?), or right higher on a gaston V8, then make a hard move to rail, and finish Cavers problem. Top out in "the jungle".

Location

Middle of the cave down low

Protection

Pad

Photos

- No Photos -
youtu.be/DVrnvx8P_6A Oct 12, 2017
When I did this, I started on the side pull crimp and a crimp on the same level. Since I am 13 and short I could fit in the tiny scrunch up area. Felt like v10 to me. May 28, 2017
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V8-
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V8-
Nice job Christian! I couldn't resist doing it a bunch of times when a friend was working on it because it's so fun. It's very strenuous and muscley though. Calling it 'Another Dave Graham Problem' is a disservice I think. Jul 31, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8+
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8+
Well Ian, I took your advice and checked out this climb again today. Success! I actually did it twice in a row because the move was so much fun.

I used the starting holds shown in the video. I agree that the Kemple guidebook makes it seem like the starting holds are something different. And very inobvious. So, I'm not sure what to say gradewise, given all that uncertainty. It definitely is a very fun climb. The double clutch move with a huge swing is probably the single most fun move at the Black Jacks.

Perhaps we should email Tim or send him a message on Facebook? Jul 31, 2014
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V8-
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V8-
The start holds seem obvious to me, left hand on a low great positive edge and right hand on the small small gaston. Pulling off the ground is very hard and creates tension through the entire right side of your body, then levitate to hero jug. I don't really see another option for right hand start hold.

I did it the same way the dude in this video did it, youtube.com/watch?v=24SmBTP…



re: grade it's so hard to grade one movers like this since they either go or they don't, no idea, I don't think i've climbed v10 yet but people on 8a.nu seem to think consensus v10 though, who knows.

Christian you should get on it you'd put it down. Jul 25, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V8+
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V8+
Ian--

I don't have an answer for you, but I do agree with you. Everybody starts this problem differently and it makes a big difference in the grade. But, the lack of obvious starting holds is one of the reasons why this climb is only so so and why I've never had much interest in it. How did you do it? Jul 24, 2014
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
  V8-
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
  V8-
The guidebook description and this description are pretty different. Anyone have a clarification particularly regarding the starting holds of this? Left hand crimp and right hand gaston sitting beneath the big bucket on the rail seems obvious but the kemple guidebook leads me to believe otherwise May 18, 2014
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
You are correct sir. this route also goes by Another Dave Graham Route :) Apr 23, 2012
mattgiossi
warwick ri
 
mattgiossi   warwick ri
 
im pretty sure i heard dave graham got the fa on this if not just let me know i will change it . really cool climb Apr 16, 2012