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Routes in (p) Spiderman Buttress

Best Left to Obscurity T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Captain Fingers T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cornerstone Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Explosive Energy Child T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
First Ascent Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
In Harm's Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Necromancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Out of Harm's Way T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Spiderman T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spiderman Variation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Squashed Spider S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stiff Little Fingers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Chuck Buzzard, 1986
Page Views: 573 total, 8/month
Shared By: Derrick Peppers on Apr 16, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This awkward route starts on somewhat easy terrain and moves into a shallow chimney with two hand cracks. the crux is moving out of the chimney and onto the face to the left. Once you have mounted the large block continue moving up onto a run out slab of fairly solid nubbins until you reach anchors at a sizable ledge above with old style bolt anchors with rap rings. the anchor is old but doesn't budge.

Location

Cornerstone Variation follows the left side of a deep corner Just left of "In Harms Way". Check the guidebook before running up this line or you could end up wrestling with 11+ terrain.

Protection

Gear to 3 inches. A number four C4 protected the crux very well for me. There is a small seam on the upper portion of the slab that I used a number four stopper, but I honestly think it only works for the head game.

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