Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 508 total · 6/month
Shared By: Jeff Hebert on Apr 14, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

Steep and sequential moves gently trending leftwards. It eases up after you get about half-way up.

Location

Immediately right of Nazi Boyfriend, on the right side of the Millennium Wall, under the prow of Canadian Handjob.

Protection

7 bolts

Photos

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Matt Jackson
Washington
Matt Jackson   Washington
Description says it all, very sequency through the first 8-10 moves; love this crux; located about halfway up Feb 8, 2014
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
A pretty unique crux that seems like it would be easier for short or tall people :) I felt like if I was short (so I could use a good foot for it) I could do a logical sequence (right side pull), instead I ended up doing a weird gaston - high right foot - cross-over at the crux that felt easier than 11b when I actually figured it out.
I can imagine someone can be too tall to get the sidepull easily but too short to do the cross over... Mar 12, 2018
Tiffany Samson
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
Tiffany Samson   Seattle, WA
  5.11b
Getting the first 2 bolts is easy. To 3rd bolt is not strenuous or tricky but take a little more energy. Make sure 3rd draw faces right because if facing left due to bulge in rock the gate opens. Then, crux begins! Well protected crux. Choose among crimpers, slopers, sidepull, heel hook, leaning, stemming, body tension. A couple of choices for clipping holds for 4th bolt, lower in a more tenuous position or higher with bomber hold. After 4th bolt, keep up the momentum because it’s easy enough to. There is a picnic stop (how lovely for an 11!) and then breezy climbing on rough friction rock. Route is not pumpy. All about movement and positioning and technique. May 7, 2018