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Routes in The Penny Hill Boulders

Lion's Den V0- 4-
Lip Traverse, left to right V0 4
Nothing But the Sun V3+ 6A+
Porcelain Hook Slide V5 6C
Second Look Arete V1 5
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Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Marc Troob
Page Views: 893 total · 12/month
Shared By: marctroob on Apr 14, 2012
Admins: M Sprague, Joe M.

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Description

Sit start with left on pinch with thumb catch, right on undercling. Work out dark left facing arete, while slapping up white right facing arete. Top out like a boss

Location

coming out of cave as you walk up.... left of the V11+? project

Protection

pad under and one on slab to left or good spot so you don't crack the back of your skull.

Photos

marctroob  
 
felt like V4-V6... i guess it felt harder than Temperance? Give it a go and let us know. Apr 14, 2012
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
I'm thinking on the harder side of that range, though I have only done the stand version so far. It seems quite a bit harder than Temperance to me, though if you are a big compression guy it may not... a really fun burly problem. Nice job, Marc. Apr 14, 2012
MaxMonn
Providence, RI
  V5+
MaxMonn   Providence, RI
  V5+
VERY cool line. This definitely needs to be promoted/hyped more because IMO its one of the best 5's in RI.

Just to clarify, the project next to it starts on the right hand pinch/ledge of porcelain hook slide and goes up right into some microscopic crimp undercling? May 12, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
May 12, 2015
its worth noting maxx that the stand start is also undone to the project. May 13, 2015
M Sprague
New England
 
M Sprague   New England  
 
Yup, the starting traverse is not very tough, just starts the pump. The hard part is in the middle, the transition onto the lower angle face. May 13, 2015
MaxMonn
Providence, RI
  V5+
MaxMonn   Providence, RI
  V5+
Thanks Mark and Dana! The move up to that crimpy undercling seems wicked heinous. Overall I wasn't too psyched about the line. Seems hard but not necessarily fun or inspiring especially when seated right next to PHS. Oh well, maybe next time I'm down that way I'll give it a few burns. Thanks for the schematic! May 31, 2015

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