Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Secret Canyon

Desert Mule T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Rotten Rock Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snaggletooth Spire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sparrow Spire T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wild Woman Spire T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 225 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Burcham, Seth Dyer
Page Views: 1,113 total, 16/month
Shared By: markguycan on Apr 13, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Phallic spire north of trail as you approach Secret Canyon. P1: 5.10 OW, P2: has 3 distinct cruxes: 5.11OW off the belay, 5.11fingers midway and then 5.11bouldery move to summit cap.

Location

hike past the spire and look for a climber trail heading up the ridge thru the manzanita. The route is visible on approach (on the west face). Just before you get there you pass a steep thin to wide 3pitch crack on the main wall: "Pink Wiggler"

Protection

at least 2 #4Camalots, a #5(new) and a #5(old)or new #6/ also recommend dbls of blue TCU and single of every thing else. plus 2 bolts on the second pitch. rap twice with a 60m rope.
Jake Dayley
  5.11
Jake Dayley  
  5.11
FA - R. Black and D. Houchlin - 1984
FFA - J. Burcham, S. Dyer - 2001

On of the top five best looking spires in sedona! Sweet climbing too! I climbed this route a long time ago but this is how I remember it...

P1 - 5.10 big hands/fists up an arching crack.
P2 - 5.9 OW to 5.10+ fingers to a bolt protected 5.11 steep boulder problem exit.

140' sounds about right

Great protection Dec 18, 2015
Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
This is definitely an unheralded classic. Beautiful aesthetic tower, awesome hero climbing (especially on the 2nd pitch), and it being totally safe make for a very fun outing! If you're worried about it I didn't think any of the OW was harder than 5.10. The crux top-out on slopers is very solid 11 though!
A little note on the approach, you should be under the tower after about 30 minutes of hiking, it'll be on your right. I would advise starting up the wash that drains directly below the tower, after 3-5 minutes get up on the ridge on the left and follow the path of least resistance up to the buttress, and then traverse right to the tower.
The route sees shade until mid-afternoon all year long. Apr 20, 2015
Zach Harrison
  5.11
Zach Harrison  
  5.11
Desert mule is one of the coolest towers in the area! Varied, steep, burly, scenic, esoteric. The gear list is pretty spot on, but mortals would like doubles of BD#.4 also. More like 140 feet long, but very worthy. One of the few mini towers worth a repeat, it has really good climbing. An overlooked gem. Mar 17, 2015