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Routes in Tower Of Power

Tower Of Power T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Max Kendall, Robert Warren, and Steve Wood, 1990
Page Views: 1,543 total · 20/month
Shared By: S.Mckinna on Apr 13, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

This is a classic corner climb to an amazing horizontal roof traverse, the route would be a prize to free climb. The tough climbing is well-protected. I had to use several points of aid but I think free climbing is totally reasonable.

Pitch 1. 100', 5.10+. Start up the corner through a short section of flakes and blocks. Climb into perfect hands to a pod, pull a roof and wrestle the steep, cupped hand crack to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2. 60-70', 5.11. Continue up the corner through another blocky section followed by a hand crack that goes to super tight hands at a steep angle. Then get mentaly prepared to traverse about 20' right under a giant roof protected with a black Alien size and some other finger sizes. Make the exposed moves around to a huge ledge. I looked for a good spot to belay but found none on the ledge and decided to climb the giant flake to the other side. On the east side of the flake I made an anchor with #3 Camalot sizes. The other option I saw was to belay after passing the roof also on the same cams, this would ease rope drag but make for a crammed and uncomfortable belay.

Pitch 3. 20-30', 5.8R. A face climb. Climb up the flake to the top and stuff 2 or 3 cams in a shallow, horizontal seam and then go for it. Not so scary, but the protection does not inspire confidence. Belay on cracks on a big boulder on top.

I would belay your partner to the rap station as it requires a short downclimb. Throw the rope over the boulder on top and do a quick body belay so you can access the 2 bolt rap station on the northeast corner of the tower. An eighty foot rap gets you to the ground. Scamble southeast back down to your gear.

Protection [Suggest Change]

One set of Aliens. Camalot sizes: 4 sets of #1, #2, #3, two #4s, and a #0.75. 5-8 long runners, new webbing for the rappel, and one 60m rope.
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
Shaded in December. Sufficient rack, including anchors: small cams, a couple medium nuts, 0.4 (1) 0.5 (1) 0.75 (1) #1 (2), #2 (2), #3 (3), and #4 (1). Bring extra #3s depending on hand size. Dec 6, 2015

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