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Tower Of Power
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Avg: 2.7 from 7
votes
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Max Kendall, Robert Warren, and Steve Wood, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,813 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | S.Mckinna on Apr 13, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Description
This is a classic corner climb to an amazing horizontal roof traverse, the route would be a prize to free climb. The tough climbing is well-protected. I had to use several points of aid but I think free climbing is totally reasonable.
Pitch 1. 100', 5.10+. Start up the corner through a short section of flakes and blocks. Climb into perfect hands to a pod, pull a roof and wrestle the steep, cupped hand crack to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2. 60-70', 5.11. Continue up the corner through another blocky section followed by a hand crack that goes to super tight hands at a steep angle. Then get mentaly prepared to traverse about 20' right under a giant roof protected with a black Alien size and some other finger sizes. Make the exposed moves around to a huge ledge. I looked for a good spot to belay but found none on the ledge and decided to climb the giant flake to the other side. On the east side of the flake I made an anchor with #3 Camalot sizes. The other option I saw was to belay after passing the roof also on the same cams, this would ease rope drag but make for a crammed and uncomfortable belay.
Pitch 3. 20-30', 5.8R. A face climb. Climb up the flake to the top and stuff 2 or 3 cams in a shallow, horizontal seam and then go for it. Not so scary, but the protection does not inspire confidence. Belay on cracks on a big boulder on top.
I would belay your partner to the rap station as it requires a short downclimb. Throw the rope over the boulder on top and do a quick body belay so you can access the 2 bolt rap station on the northeast corner of the tower. An eighty foot rap gets you to the ground. Scamble southeast back down to your gear.
Pitch 1. 100', 5.10+. Start up the corner through a short section of flakes and blocks. Climb into perfect hands to a pod, pull a roof and wrestle the steep, cupped hand crack to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2. 60-70', 5.11. Continue up the corner through another blocky section followed by a hand crack that goes to super tight hands at a steep angle. Then get mentaly prepared to traverse about 20' right under a giant roof protected with a black Alien size and some other finger sizes. Make the exposed moves around to a huge ledge. I looked for a good spot to belay but found none on the ledge and decided to climb the giant flake to the other side. On the east side of the flake I made an anchor with #3 Camalot sizes. The other option I saw was to belay after passing the roof also on the same cams, this would ease rope drag but make for a crammed and uncomfortable belay.
Pitch 3. 20-30', 5.8R. A face climb. Climb up the flake to the top and stuff 2 or 3 cams in a shallow, horizontal seam and then go for it. Not so scary, but the protection does not inspire confidence. Belay on cracks on a big boulder on top.
I would belay your partner to the rap station as it requires a short downclimb. Throw the rope over the boulder on top and do a quick body belay so you can access the 2 bolt rap station on the northeast corner of the tower. An eighty foot rap gets you to the ground. Scamble southeast back down to your gear.
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