Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Waves of Rock

Banzai T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Flake Thing T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hang Ten T,S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Original Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 325 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,231 total, 18/month
Shared By: MacM on Apr 12, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Falcon Closures from February 2 until July 15. Details

Description

Follow the large flake straight up to the shallow roof with horizontal crack, follow this roof traversing right until coming upon the first bolt/2nd Opt. belay. Pull over the roof (5.6 Crux) then follow the line of bolts up slab to the next belay. Then follow the line of bolts again up the slab, past 3rd Opt. belay, to another shallow and long horizontal roof with a large ledge beneath it. Mantle the "roof" and continue past a Piton and two bolts, the rap chains/belay will be on the left.

Location

In the middle of the Right Section of Waves of Rock, the right side of large gully with single Pine tree in it, cannot miss the large flake the route follows. The base of the route is mostly a boulder pile.
3 Button-head bolts with (small/rusty)chains will get you first Rap down to the gully with the tree, scramble down Gully to reach the tree then have a second rap down off of the tree.

Protection

Standard rack, flake will take anything you throw at it. Runners (For first few pieces.). ~10 Draws.
Pitch 1: Gear and good bolts(x5) Pitch 2: Bolts and a Piton (x8)
First bolt on second pitch lacks a hanger.
Also, a 70M is nice to have for this route. For the up and down.

Photos

Phil Wilson
Phoenix, Arizona
 
Phil Wilson   Phoenix, Arizona
 
A fun climb. First pitch goes over the first roof and up the face until you reach the two-bolt belay station. From there continue up super easy low angle friction to a big ledge. The climb trends slightly left. If you get to the big ledge and find yourself to the right of the rap chains, it's an easy walk over on the ledge. To find trail 40, follow the paved road from the Metate parking lot. Turn right on the first dirt road you come to. Follow the dirt road for a few minutes and you'll see signage for trail 40. Oct 17, 2017
Found some gear under a boulder to the left of this route. Let me know if you lost something. Aug 18, 2015
metcalfd
Reston VA
 
metcalfd   Reston VA
 
Note to self: 50 Meter rope barely cuts the rap down!! Had to rap to the Bonsai on the middle of the slab before rapping to the tree in the main gully! A little more than a handful of rope was left outside of my belay device when I reached the Bonsai!! Aug 13, 2012
metcalfd
Reston VA
 
metcalfd   Reston VA
 
Great route! Fun, exposed slab that isn't affected by the Peregrine Falcon closures. Enjoy! Apr 14, 2012