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Routes in Scorpion Slab

Melting Bits S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Satisfaction Guaranteed S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Scorpion Slab S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Scorpios Make Great Lovers S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tarantula S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Tim Toula 2009 FFA: Peter Vintoniv, 6 April 2012
Page Views: 470 total, 7/month
Shared By: James Garrett on Apr 12, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Many amazing individual moves combine to bring satisfaction after working this puzzle out. Peter V expressed a bit of disappointment after solving the puzzle. Sometimes the process is more intriguing than the solution.

Both Tim and Peter rave about the unique movement. Tim originally thought it to be as hard as 5.13c! More consensus will be a better judge.

Location

South facing around to the right of Melting Bits (5.10d). These two routes are on a separate buttress just east of Scorpion Slab and offer very steep routes.

Protection

QDs for 8 bolts. The bolts need chains added.

Photos

Aaron Livingston
Moab, UT
  5.12c/d
Aaron Livingston   Moab, UT
  5.12c/d
Definitely agree on 12c for this one. Lot's of ticked holds that are misleading and would definitely up the grade several letters if you used them. Awesome route!! Mar 1, 2014
KevinTodd84
Salt Lake City, UT
KevinTodd84   Salt Lake City, UT
Satisfaction guaranteed, delivered on its promise. This gymnastic beauty left a smile on my face.

I worked on this route a bit with Tim. Tim's envisioned sequence for the opening moves is truly futuristic. I played around and found some different beta that did make the route feel like 12c to me.

I spoke with Tim about the anchors and he gave me permission to put new anchors in. The new anchor with chain is a little lower and to the left. This will prevent any damage to rope while lowering or if you want to top rope. Tim's original anchors are still there if you want to do 2 more moves and clip them you can.
New anchor added on 10/20/2013.

Thanks Tim for this awesome route!!! Oct 15, 2013