Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Keith Ainsworth? Mike Slavens? Garrett Gillest?
Page Views: 384 total · 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Apr 11, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures & Rockfall Mitigation Project Details

Description

This a bit of a squeezed line, but it does go and protects with gear. While climbing with 3 friends, we sort of got to a bottleneck in terms of climbing efficiency, so this line seemed to ask if it could be climbed or led. The answer was yes to both. Given its cleanliness, it certainly could have been done previously. Yet, it seemed to deserve a better name than Unknown, so it is named...at least temporarily.

Start up in the chimney just to the left of Wannabe Bolter, protect as high as you think the rock is solid on the right. Then find a low blue Alien placement. Commit to the face, find better than you might have expected holds angling slightly left. There was a spot where Jon thought you might fiddle in a #0.5 or 0.75 Camalot in a horizontal. There is a green Alien slot in a small, diagonal crack. Continue up to the anchor for WanneBe Right or Two, then head to the anchors for Wannabe Bolter. Rap.

Location

This is right of WanneBe Right or Two and left of Wannabe Bolter.

Protection

#3 Camalot, #4 Camalot, blue Alien, green Alien, quickdraw. You may be able to fiddle in a #0.5 or #0.75 Camalot.

Photos

Jay Eggleston
Denver
  5.8 PG13
Jay Eggleston   Denver
  5.8 PG13
While you can go to the anchors of Wanna be a Bolter, you only get a short, easy traverse from the Wannebe Right anchor. I top roped the route, but the protection does not look very good once you commit to the face above the crack. Jan 16, 2015