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Routes in Black and Feathered Walls

He was an aficionado of not only trains, but of the entire railway system S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
salient rock shape of the locomotive, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Derek Pearson & Jon Nelson, April 10, 2012
Page Views: 422 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on Apr 10, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

The start has a bouldery crux in which you move from an undercling to a sloper to a layback. This move is protected by a bolt. After the second bolt, move up to the thin crack on the "feathery" section. Follow the crack, clipping three more bolts, and then use stoppers and cams to 1.5". This section is steep and pumpy. It involves jams, laybacks, and face holds. The crack goes to the left of the roof, above which is a three-bolt, chained anchor.

Location

From the start of "Aficionado" walk a short distance left along the base of the wall. Where the path starts going uphill, look for the first bolt below the crack splitting the feathered wall.

Protection

5 quickdraws plus a selection of stoppers and cams from small wires to 1.5".

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